Places To Visit In Messinia

Accessibility

The access to Messinia Prefecture has greatly improved and is by far easier and more functional. In addition, the access to Messinia is not only by car but also by other means of transport. Kalamata gathers all sorts of transport and constitutes a unique transportation hub. The connection of the areas of the Prefecture is not favored as its mountainous terrain does not foster the road links.

Aghios Nikolaos of Platsa

The Holy Church of Aghios Nikolaos in Kabinari, Platsa, is a three-aisled basilica dating to the 10th century. In the 14th century the dome was added and also various other alterations and additions took place, as some inscriptions testify. This church is famous for its splendid murals. Today it holds service only once a year.

Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos or Selinitsa, located approximately 49 kilometres southeast of Kalamata, is a beautiful fishing village, as well as a very well organized holiday resort. Built near ancient Pefnos, the birthplace of Castor and Pollux (Dioscuri), with a modern infrastructure and all the scenic and traditional beauties of Messinian Mani, Agios Nikolaos is an idyllic accommodation option and an ideal starting point for touring the nearby area. Here, there is something for everyone. The crystal clear sea is perfect for swimming and fishing, the imposing mountain ideal for hiking and the valley has numerous trails for cycling. The entire area is filled with majestic castles, towers, Byzantine and Late Byzantine churches and gorgeous beaches for magical nights under the stars; all set against a uniquely beautiful backdrop.

Aghios Nikolaos (long)

Aghios Nikolaos, also known as Selinitsa, 49 km southeast of Kalamata, near the cosmopolitan Stoupa, is a beautiful fishing village and also an excellently organised vacation area. With many new buildings ‒most of which are summer houses or vacation lodgings‒ connected with alleys, it proves its picturesque beauty every morning at its small port.

Aghios Nikolaos is built near ancient Pefnos (today’s small fishing village of Aghios Dimitrios, where the Dioskouri were born), with modern facilities catering to all tastes and with all the picturesque and traditional beauties of the Messinian Mani. It is also ideal both for a relaxing stay and for excursions to the surrounding area. The amazing sea summons us for swimming and fishing, the imposing mountain for hiking and the flat areas for biking. The whole of the Messinian Mani awaits to reveal its majestic towers, its Byzantine and post-Byzantine small churches, its amazing beaches and the magical evenings with their rich flavours, for all tastes.

The surrounding area abounds with villages of excellent architecture: Lefktro, with its beautiful, Frankish Beaufort castle, the unparalleled Kardamili, Kastania, with the heroic actions of the klephts, Aghios Nikolaos, an ideal vacation area, Trachila, a small port with caves, Riglia, with its impressive churches and cultural activities, Milia, among the ravines, with its famous monastery dedicated to the Panaghia, Platsa, a modern settlement with festivals during the Carnival season, Pyrgos, with amazing view and excellent local products, Aghios Dimitrios, with an impressive cave, and others. All the villages, either in the mainland or on the coast, hide powerful, local architectural wealth, beautiful Byzantine buildings, fountains, towers and other structures and they are all surrounded by rich flora, great sea view and the heroic stories of the local families, all in magical pockets of land, with amazing landscape.

Alagonia – The Potato Festival

Alagonia is a village in the municipality of Kalamata and is located on the western side of Mount Taygetos, at an altitude of 750 metres. This village has always been known for the quality of its potatoes, which are cultivated and produced in massive quantities in various fields on the mountain. This reputation contributed to the establishment of the annual Potato Festival, which takes place during the summer, aiming to promote this domestic product.

The Potato Festival takes place in the main square of the village and is organized by the Local Association and the Local Community of Alagonia, under the auspices of the municipality of Kalamata and the CC FARIS. Potatoes are, of course, in the spotlight, cooked in many different ways –some well known and some not so widely known- by the women of the village and offered to the attendees together with other delicacies. Various exhibitions take place along with the Festival, while there is also a bazaar where local merchants sell their products. Neither traditional music by a live band nor dancing are missing from the event, which is visited by many people every year.

Alexandrakio retirement home – Kalamata

The Alexandrakio retirement home, which has been providing shelter to the elderly since 1877, is situated east of the Metropolitan Church of the Ipapanti of Christ in Kalamata. It was founded by the late Spyridon Alexandrakis, a great benefactor of Kalamata.

Spyridon Alexandrakis was born in 1807 in Kambos, Avia. His family was relatively poor, which was the reason why at the age of 14 he went to Kalamata, where initially he worked as a servant and later as assistant to a merchant. Apprenticing with the merchant, he slowly managed to carve a name for himself in the sector. As a result, at the age of 29 he was already managing his own firm in Kalamata. He became very wealthy and he donated a great part of his wealth to good causes. Through his will, which was drawn up on October 19, 1870, he bequeathed what was then considered a huge sum of money to go towards the creation of a home for the elderly/impoverished, as well as the Greek School of Kampos. The home opened seven years later, and in 1940 it became exclusively a retirement home. In 1972 the church of Aghios Spyridon was erected, to cater to the church needs of the elderly, and in 1999 the new building was inaugurated, since the old one had been completely destroyed in the earthquakes of 1986.

Today the Alexandrakio retirement home cares for approximately 88 people, who have come here of their own free will. The elderly staying here have described their living conditions as excellent, since they are very well cared for and there is also opportunity for entertainment. One third of the expenses is covered by the Alexandrakis foundation and two thirds by donations and by own resources.

Ancient Messene

Ancient Messene is situated in the western foothills of mountain Ithomi, near the village called today Mavromati. A large part of the city has come to light, which reveals its great expanse and also its significance during ancient times. Ancient Messene was built in 369 B.C. by the general Epaminondas from Thebes after the battle at Lefktra, when he defeated the Spartans, invaded Laconia and released the Messenians from the Spartan rule.

The traveller Pausanias visited the city between 155 and 160 B.C. and recorded significant information regarding its form and all public and holy buildings. First of all the stone wall that enclosed it, which was approximately nine kilometres long and protected the city from all directions, apart from the northeast, where Ithomi stood as a natural fort. Apart from part of this wall, the archaeological excavations also brought to light: the Theatre, which mainly hosted political assemblies, the Arsinoe Fountain, a large and impressive construction between the Theatre and the Agora, the western part of the Agora, the sanctuary of Zeus Soter, the sanctuary of Demeter and the Dioscouri, the Asclepium, which seemed to play an important role in the public life of the city, the sanctuary of a hero, probably Aristomenes, the Ecclesiasterion, the Stadium, the Gymnasium, as well as the Arcadian Gate, great in size, which is mentioned many times by the travellers as one of the archaeological site’s most impressive constructions.

Ancient Messene (long)

To the south west of Peloponnesus, next to the modern-day village of Mavromati, in ancient times lay the city of Messene, one of the most important ancient cities of the region, with a significant historical presence. The city was founded in 369 BC by the Theban general Epameinondas and his allies from Argos, with the purpose of excluding the Spartans from the Messenian region.

Legend has it that the specific location for the establishment of the new city was selected after the location of the will of Aristomenes, a Messenian hero, was miraculously revealed through the intervention of priests and oracles. According to Pausanias, in order to populate the new city, Messenian immigrants in Italy, Sicily, Evesperides in Libya, as well as various other cities where they had settled, were called back. Most of them replied positively to the invitation to settle the new city, and together with the freed slaves and the perioeci (the free but non-citizens of Sparta), they comprised the first population of Messene. The city got its name from the legendary, pre-Doric queen of the land, who was the daughter of King Triopas of Argos and wife of Polycaon of Laconia. According to Pausanias, Messene was deified circa 10th century BC and was gradually declared one of the main deities of the city.

Systematic excavations started in 1895 by Themistocles Sofoulis and were continued in 1909 and 1925 by Georgios Oikonomou. Anastasios Orlandos later researched the area until 1974, while from 1986 the excavations are directed by Petros Themelis. Throughout these years, many public and sacred buildings were brought to light, as seen and described by Pausanias, who visited the city in years 155-160 AD, during the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius.

Ancient Messene was surrounded by a nine and a half kilometre wall, its largest part still standing to this day. It had two gates, the Arcadian Gate (or Gate of Megalopolis) and the Laconian Gate. This last gate was destroyed in the 18th century, but the Arcadian Gate is still preserved in fairly good condition, and in fact was the city’s landmark for the first travellers, who liked to depict it in their engravings. It is an enormous and imposing circular gate, with two entrances, one interior and one exterior.

More discoveries were made in ancient Messene, such as the theatre, the agora, the temples of Demeter, the Dioskouroi, Zeus Sotiros, as well as of Isis and Serapis; the temple of a hero, the imposing Spring of Arsinoe, a large Doric temple, the Asclepeion, which was the most magnificent public building; the ecclesiasterion, which is a type of small theatre, the stadium, the gymnasium, and from later times a basilica of the early Byzantine era.

The city’s layout followed the hippodamian system, where all buildings have the same orientation and space is divided along horizontal and vertical axes. Hippodamus of Miletus was the father of this system. He was an architect, mathematician, urban planner and astronomer who lived circa 5th century BC, and he based his system on the three principles of democracy: isonomy (equality before the law), isopolity (equal civic rights) and isomoiria (equal share in land ownership).

The city fell victim to a raid by the Goths in 395 BC, led by Alarichus, and after that it gradually became deserted. It is however still one of the best preserved cities of the ancient world and one of the most interesting archaeological destinations.

Anthesteria – Kalamata

In antiquity, Anthesteria was a celebration to honour Dionysus, the god of ecstatic inebriation and fertility, celebrated mainly in Athens during month of Anthesterion, which corresponded to the end of February to early March. Anthesteria was the festival of spring, flowers and rebirth, which is probably also the origin of the word, taken from anthos (meaning “flower”).

In modern times the Anthesteria began to be celebrated in various parts of Greece, signalling the arrival of spring, bringing with it the full rebirth of nature. In Kalamata they have a long tradition of this festival, starting in 1960. In the Messinian capital, during the last days of May or the early days of June, a beautiful display is staged each year, starting with a flower show in Alsos Limenikou in Kalamata, and ending with the customary parade of the flower-decorated floats. This is an institution with an age-old name, to remind us that some values, such as the beauty of nature, are timeless.

Archaeological Museum of Messene

The Archaeological Museum of Messene was created in order to exclusively house the findings of the Archaeological Society’s excavations in Ancient Messene, which began in 1895 and are still going on today. The Museum was built on the western part of Mavromati village, on land granted to the Archaeological Society.

It is a small two-storey building, with storage areas on the ground floor and three exhibition rooms on the top floor. The Museum has a significant collection of sculptures. Among them the Doryforos of Polykleitos, Artemis Laphria, Hermes of the Andros-Farnese type, as well as fragments of sculptures by the Messenian Damophon.

In the Museum’s catalogue more than 12,000 findings have been recorded, a huge number, considering the restricted exhibitional space. It is impossible, of course, to exhibit them all simultaneously, so most of them remain in storage, waiting for a bigger space to house them. Nevertheless, the Archaeological Museum of Messene remains one of the most noteworthy in the area, and a visit there sheds light on important aspects of the area’s historical past.

Archaeological Museum of Messene (long)

The Archaeological Museum of Messene was inaugurated in March 2000 in Mavromati, a village in Ithomi, with the purpose of housing all the findings brought to light by the archaeological research that had started in the late 19th century in ancient Messene. The excavations that have continued up to our days have revealed an enormous wealth of findings, so much so that now the relevantly small museum cannot exhibit all of them simultaneously.

As regards the history of the excavations, they started in 1895 by Themistocles Sofoulis and were continued in 1905 and 1926 by Georgios Oikonomou. Anastasios Orlandos then took over (1957-1975) and after him Petros Themelis, who started in 1986 and continues up to the present day.

The museum was built on a plot donated to the Archaeological Association by Greek expatriate D. Latzounis. It is a simple small two-storey building containing more than 12,000 findings, most kept in storage in the basement. Several exhibits are also on display in the museum’s atrium and under shelters. Its most important exhibits are sculptures, some of them of particular artistic value. The Messenian sculptor Damophon is adequately represented in the museum, where several fragments of his works are on display. Damophon was the most important sculptor of the Late Hellenistic period, and thanks to Pausanias we can be certain of at least 15 of his works. He specialized in sculptures representing gods and heroes, which is why his creations were usually of colossal dimensions. Apart from his homeland, Messene, his works have also been found on Aegean islands, in Megalopolis and Lykosoura.

In addition to Damophon’s works, the visitor can also admire the Doryphoros of Polycleitus, a Hermes of the Andros-Farnese type, and an Artemis Lafria. The Doryphoros was discovered in 1995 at the Gymnasium of Messene, and belongs to a series of faithful copies of the Polycleitus-type Doryphoros, which can be found today dispersed in various museums worldwide. It is a work of excellent quality, dating to the reign of Emperor Augustus. With regard to the person it represents, some say it is Achilles while others claim it is Theseus. The Hermes of the Andros-Farnese type is a marble statue found in 1996 in the west gallery of the Gymnasium, which faithfully follows a sculpture type seen elsewhere. The Artemis Lafria was discovered earlier, in 1986. It represents the goddess with her right hand raised, ready to draw an arrow from her quiver.

Archaeological Museum of Messenia

The wider area of Messenia has a very rich historical past, the evidence of which needed a special area to be housed in. So, in 2009 the Archaeological Museum of Messenia in Kalamata was inaugurated, with the aim to bring out the history and culture of the area through the important findings brought to light by the archaeologists.

The Museum includes exhibits ranging from prehistoric to Byzantine times, in a simple but elegant space. The exhibition follows the Prefecture’s geographical division into its four provinces, Messene, Trifilia, Pylia and Kalamata. Upon entering the Museum, the visitor follows a central path, from which he can diverge into each of the provinces’ separate sections.

The Museum recently received the exhibits of the Archaeological Museum of Kalamata, which operated in the city a few years ago. The transferring of the exhibits was deemed necessary, in order for all the findings of the area to be assembled under one roof, providing as complete a picture as possible of the culture that emerged and developed in Messenia.

Archaeological Museum of Messinia (long)

The Archaeological Museum of Messinia opened its doors to the public in June of 2009 and has been one of the most important destinations for all visitors to the region ever since. It is housed in a building in the old marketplace in Kalamata, the so-called Municipal Market, one of the most busy and lively neighbourhoods of the city. This building was donated by the Ministry of Culture and it is a space with a layout and decoration that help highlight the exhibits in the best possible way.

The Museum contains exhibits covering a broad historical range, testimony to the rich past of the broader region of Messinia. The visitor can admire findings from the Early Helladic, Prehistoric and Classical years, up to the Roman and Byzantine periods, which were either from excavations and systematic research, or were accidental discoveries by ordinary citizens.

The exhibition was designed along the lines of the old geographical division of the prefecture into its four provinces: Messene, Pylia, Trifylia and Kalamata. Each area has its own special characteristics, from which the museum has drawn its thematic units. For example, the famous kingdom of Nestor, the Homeric hero, was located in Trifylia; Pylia has a number of tholos tombs; an important civilization flourished in Messene, particularly during the Hellenistic and Roman periods; while Kalamata was an important centre of historical developments, both in antiquity and during the period of the Venetian and Frankish conquests. The museum is structured around a main roadmap, which the visitor can follow and go to the individual thematic sections at will.

Among the most important thematic units the visitor can admire are: Pylia under Venetian Rule (1206-1500), The Territory of Nestor’s Palace, The ‘Outer’ Mani at the Border of Messinia-Laconia, Mani and the Despotate of Morea, the Villehardouins and Messinia, and several others. The museum also offers special interactive activities for children, making it an ideal destination for schools.

Archaeological Museum of Pylos

The Archaeological Museum of Pylos was built in 1956 with a donation by dentist Christos Antonopoulos; for that reason it is officially known as Antonopoulio. The Museum was initially created in order to house the rich collection of philhellene Rene Puaux, which he had donated to Pylos. The building was eventually used as an Archaeological Museum, which houses findings from the area of Pylia, from the Middle Helladic to Roman times.

The Museum’s exhibits take up two halls. Among them stand out the findings that were discovered in a tholos tomb in Koukounara at Paleochoria, which include a seal, golden bands, a burial jar and two necklaces, also a large astragalus (“knucklebone”; knucklebones were often used in games of chance) from the Hellenistic tomb of Tragana, as well as a plethora of burial offerings, vessels and copper utensils.

A recent decision was made to transfer the Archaeological Museum of Pylos to Niokastro, the city’s fortress. As soon as this plan has been completed, the Museum’s areas will be turned into storage rooms and a conservation workshop.

Archaeological Museum of Pylos (long)

The Archaeological Museum of Pylos, also known as the “Antonopoulio”, taken from the name of the man who sponsored its foundation – dentist Christos Antonopoulos from Pedassos, who lived and worked in America – was built between the years 1956 and 1958 and was inaugurated in 1961.

The museum’s initial purpose was to house the rich collection of the French philhellene, Rene Puaux, which included documents, engravings and battle relics. Puaux, who was declared an honorary citizen of the municipality of Pylos, had envisaged the creation of a museum which would house, apart from his collection, all the relics of the Greek Revolution. The museum, the construction of which was fraught with difficulties, in the end housed only part of the Puaux collection, which has still to find its permanent home. The Antonopoulio Museum was eventually used as an archaeological museum, containing findings from the wider Pylos region, from the Middle Helladic to the Roman years.

The museum is divided into two rooms, based on chronological criteria. The first room displays prehistoric findings, of which of particular note are the findings from the Mycenaean tombs of Koukounara, north of Pylos. These include various vases, as well as burial goods, such as golden coins and other valuable objects. The second room contains findings from the Archaic to the Roman years, most significant being the findings from the Hellenistic tomb uncovered at the location of Tsopani Rachi. This tomb also contained gold coins, as well as glass and bronze artefacts.

A few years ago the decision was taken to move the Archaeological Museum of Pylos to the ground floor of General Maison’s building at Niokastro, within the grounds of the city’s castle. This relocation falls under a broader framework of restructuring and better utilization of the castle’s spaces, while the museum will have the opportunity to expand in what is a more modern and spacious site.

Archaeological Museum of Trifilia

The Archaeological Museum of Trifilia is located in the town of Chora, in the Prefecture of Messenia. It was founded in 1969 with the intention of creating a building to house the excavations that had begun in the area and were rapidly picking up pace. The most important discovery that came to light in the wider area of Trifilia and Pylos is the famous palace of Nestor, of the 13th century B.C.

From the palace of Nestor derive the Museum’s most important exhibits. Apart from vessels and various items of daily use, the visitor can also admire fragments from the great murals that adormed the palace, as well as clay tablet moulds written in Linear B. Among the important findings housed in the Museum, the visitor will find: a huge jar, possibly for storing olive oil; a large white marble lamp found in one of the palace’s corridors; findings from a tholos tomb discovered on Vagenas hill, near the palace, such as copper bottle, kraters and golden rosettes; golden artifacts from graves on Peristerias hill, in Kiparissia, as well as valuable items found in principal tombs.

Archaeological Museum of Trifylia (long)

At the beginning of the last century, a wave of excavations spread through the regions of Trifylia and Pylos, bringing to light a number of archaeological findings, testimony to the rich and active civilization that flourished in antiquity in this region. Among the most important and impressive findings was the Palace of Nestor, on the hill of Epano Englianos, dating back to the 13th century BC. All important discoveries in the area, the most prominent being that of this palace, required a special place in order to be housed and to be made available to the public. Thus, the Archaeological Museum of Trifylia was founded in 1969, in the town of Chora, in the prefecture of Messinia.

The findings from the Palace of Nestor take up most of the museum’s space. Here the visitor will see parts of the exquisite frescoes adorning the palace, some of them showing the clear influence of the Minoan style, for example, a bull-leaping athlete, a popular sport in Minoan Crete. There are also casts from the Linear B clay tablets. These tablets were the only items saved from the fire that levelled the building in the 12th century. There is also a large lamp, made of white marble, discovered in one of the palace’s corridors, which was apparently used for lighting, as well as various vases, principally for everyday uses, such as cooking pottery that still bears the marks of the fire.

Apart from the findings from the Palace of Nestor, the museum also houses others, found in two tholos tombs on Vagena hill, close to the palace: a crater depicting a scene from a hunt, relief gold rosettes, a bronze bottle, a bronze dagger, as well as four large jars. From another tholos tomb, an enormous jar, adorned with horizontal rings, possibly used to store oil, is especially impressive. Other exhibits come from the excavations of the large Mycenaean burial ground in Volimidia, by Spyros Marinatos; findings from the tholos tombs of the Peristeria hill in Kyparissia as well as findings from the excavations at the princes’ tombs in Routsi, Myrsinochori, dating from the 15th century.

Church of Aghii Apostoli – Kalamata

The church of Aghii Apostoli stands imposingly at the northern side of the historical 23 Martiou square, in Kalamata. It is a Byzantine church, built between the 11th and the 12th century, small, but of great historical significance because here, according to tradition, the Greek Revolution was declared, on March 23d, 1821.

It is evident that the church of Aghii Apostoli went through two building phases, the first during the 18th century and the second during the Venetian Rule, when today’s main church was added. Today the church comprises the older, eastern part, which was the Holy Bema, and the newer, western part, which constitutes the main church. The earthquake of 1986 resulted in the main church collapsing. Fortunately the restoration works didn’t take too long to begin, and so this significant monument of Greek religious and historical tradition was preserved

Climate

The climate of the Messinia Prefecture is temperate, with variations in its individual areas according to the coastal, hilly or flat character of the region. The average temperature in summer is lowest in coastal areas and increases moving towards the interior of the Prefecture, while in winter it is higher and decreases moving towards the interior of the Prefecture. Frost is seen mainly in mountainous and secondarily in lowland areas. The climate in coastal regions is humid throughout the year. Rainfalls are relatively heavy and grow from the coastal to the lowland and mountainous areas.

“Cultural Evenings”, Municipality of Pylos-Nestor

The Municipality of Pylos-Nestor, in collaboration with the Public Welfare Institution, established in 2011 the annual “Cultural Evenings”, whose aim is to bring out the area as a centre of spiritual and cultural activity, and one that supports and enhances creative values.

The Municipality of Pylos-Nestor was constituted in 2011, when the Kallikratis Plan decided to merge the pre-existing municipalities of Pylos, Nestor, Koroni, Methoni, Papaflessa and Chiliochoria. The “Cultural Evenings” have managed to incorporate into their programme many of the former municipalities’ events, thus succeeding in bringing the people even closer, promoting, at the same time, the area’s unified character.

The events last from mid-July to the end of August, attracting to the Municipality of Pylos-Nestor thousands of visitors, who choose this destination in order to combine their vacations with spiritual uplift and entertainment.

The events include theatre and dance performances, concerts, children’s theatre and also events related to local cuisine and folklore tradition.

Filiatra

Filiatra is a small town in the southwest of the prefecture of Messinia, between Kyparissia and Gargalianoi, in an area filled with cultivated fields. It flourished in the late 19th century, mainly due to viticulture, as well as to its commercial relations with various European cities.

Today, Filiatra is a beautiful and intriguing town, with lovely squares -its main square is really impressive and the fountain is built according to the Florentine architectural style- imposing neoclassical buildings, majestic churches, various events and important attractions. The best known of its attractions is a model of the Eiffel Tower, which was constructed in the last century and donated by Dr. Charalambos Fournarakis.

Foinikounta

Foinikounta, also known as Foinikouda or Foinikous, is a seaside village in the prefecture of Messinia, half way between the castle states of Methoni and Koroni, and has a population of approximately 600 people. In ancient times it was called “Foinikous Limin” probably because the Phoenicians had established a port there. The excellent tourism infrastructure, with numerous hotels, rooms to let, camping sites, restaurants, taverns, clubs and bars, makes it very popular during the summer months. In the nearby area there are many lovely sandy beaches. The old fishing village, which was once called Taverna, is a frequently visited destination that also offers a nice view to the isle of Schiza.

Finikounda (long)

In antiquity it was called “Finikous limin (= port of Finikous)”, probably because the Phoenicians had created a port in the area. The area’s ample tourist facilities (hotels, rooms to let, camping sites, restaurants, tavernas, entertainment spots etc.) have contributed to its becoming very busy during the last years, attracting many visitors, especially during the summer months.

Finikounda, also known as Finikoutha or Finikous, is a seaside village in the prefecture of Messinia, 69 km from Kalamata, almost halfway from both castle cities, Methoni and Koroni, with a current population of approximately 600. The rich gardens that embrace the settlement with the beautiful tile-roofed houses and the multicoloured pebbles create a very cozy atmosphere, the perfect backdrop to the great nights promised by the area’s entertainment spots. Off the coast of Finikounda nestles the islet of Schiza, inhabited at times, which hides an impressive cave to be explored, offering the incentive for a small sea trip. The sea, with sandy or pebbled beaches, busy or secluded, is like a big embrace that caters to every taste.

In the surrounding area there are many beautiful beaches (Mavrovouni, Loutsa, Lampes), as well as the old fishing village that used to be called Taverna, from a well-known entertainment centre. Two settlements “embrace” Finikounda: to the west Methoni (12 km), with the beautiful small town outside the walls and the impressive and easily accessible fortress with its castle islet, the well-known Bourtzi; and to the east Koroni (21 km), built amphitheatrically, with its multicoloured houses, blossoming gardens and imposing castle. The verdant Messinian landscape, the clean, open seas, the rich historical past and the ample tourist facilities constitute the perfect environment for your vacations or for a long-term stay.

Gialova lagoon

Gialova lagoon is located in Messinia and is one of the most important wetlands not only in Greece, but also in Europe. It probably dates to prehistoric times and owes its creation both to tectonic activity and to a rise in sea level, phenomena which created this ecological zone of unique importance.

The Gialova lagoon is the first station in the Balkans that the migratory birds from Africa come across; according to the estimates, these birds are 2 billion in number. Of the 442 bird species recorded on Greek soil, more than 270 have been recorded in Gialova. Apart from birds, however, the area also hosts an impressive number of mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish. So, it is no wonder that it should officially be included in the Natura 2000 Network as a  Special Protection Area (SPA); it has also been recognized as a Wildlife Sanctuary and an Important Bird Area.

 

Holy Monastery of Aghios Konstantinos and Aghia Eleni

Aproximately one kilometre from the historical centre of Kalamata is located the Holy Monastery of Aghios Konstantinos and Aghia Eleni. It is often referred to as the Monastery of the Nuns (“Kalogreon”), an apt name, considering that from its foundation until today it has always been a women’s monastery, with great contribution to the Messenian society.

The Monastery was founded in 1796 by monk and teacher Gerassimos Papadopoulos. Its main church was built above an older one, of the 13th century. In addition to that, the Monastery has another church, dedicated to the Elevation of the Holy Cross.

The Kalogreon Monastery has always been there for the people in need, offering charity and hospitality to the orphans of the war and, in more recent times, providing food and board to those affected by the earthquake of 1986. The Monastery is also known for the fine textiles produced by the nuns, which had began at a time when silk was being produced here. These handiworks are renowned around the world and they have received many prizes.

The Monastery of Saints Konstantinos and Eleni (long)

On the outskirts of the historical centre of Kalamata, close to the Metropolitan Church of Ypapanti, we find the Monastery of Saints Konstantinos and Eleni, also known as Moni Kalograion. The monastery was created in 1976 by monk and teacher Gerasimos Papadopoulos from Kalamata, and has been ceaselessly operating ever since as a women’s convent which, we should note, is Old Calendarist.

The monastery was built on top of an abandoned 13th century church, as can be seen by the right external side of the altar. From the old church, the fresco depicting the Utmost Humiliation survives in the Prothesis. Its last renovation was after the earthquake of 1986 and the damage it caused. There is a second church in the courtyard of the monastery, dedicated to the Exaltation of the Holy Cross.

From its foundation, this monastery has welcomed hundreds of young girls who have wanted to embrace the monastic life, and throughout its history it dedicated its work to helping the weak and the oppressed, helping orphans and victims of earthquake and war, offering shelter and food. Another characteristic of the monastery are the wonderful woven cloths created by the nuns, which they continue to make to this day, using the traditional loom. Lovely tablecloths, curtains, towels, embroidered canonicals, as well as the characteristic scarf of Kalamata, are all woven here and sold in the monastery’s shop. The woven fabrics of the monastery have become known the world over and have received several awards and high praise.

In addition to the loom room and shop, the monastery also has a vestry – museum where various valuable items are housed: canonicals, sacred vessels, invaluable icons, part of the old chancel screen, and the relics of various saints of the orthodox faith; these are only some of the many treasures kept here. There is also a rich library, with theological and other books.

Holy Monastery of Dimiova

The Holy Monastery of Dimiova is located near the village of Yannitsa, also known as Eleochori, in the Municipality of Kalamata. One tradition says that it was founded in the 8th century A.D., during the reign of Leon Isaurus, however there is no concrete evidence to support this claim. The Monastery appears in documents in the 15th century and it seems to have taken its current form two centuries later.

The Monastery is built amidst verdant scenery, among firs and pine trees. Its name is of Slavic origin: dimiova means “the place where saffron grows”, a plant that still grows here during the spring. The Monastery of Dimiova is dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos and its history is connected with the miraculous icon of the Panaghia (“The Blessed Virgin Mary”). A distinctive feature of this icon is the wound on the head of the Panaghia, which is covered with crusted blood; lab tests confirmed that it is, indeed, blood.

The Monastery went through many adventures, being at the receiving end of much enmity, which almost completely annihilated it. Every time, however, it succeeded in being reborn from its ashes. In 1834 the Monastery was disbanded, it resumed its operation, however, in 1838 during the reign of Otto.

The Monastery of Dimiova (long)

The Monastery of Panagia Dimiova or Dimiovi, dedicated to the Dormition of the Madonna, is a beautiful monastery situated to the west of central Taygetos, above the village Giannitsa, in a lush green location. There are a number of variations of its name: Tinova, Timiova, Dimiova, Dimonovo and Dimanovo, which show a foreign origin. In fact the name “Dimiova” in Slav means a land where the crocus bulb grows, which we can still see today growing in the springtime in the monastery’s forest.

It is estimated that the monastery was built during the early decades of the 17th century, but there is already testimony of the existence of its church back in the 15th century, as is there reference that it was torched by the Turks in 1463 during the Turkish-Venetian war. This was the first of a series of ravages which the Monastery suffered through the centuries. In 1770, during the Orlof period, it sustained extensive damage when Russian officers Alexios and Theodoros Orlof came to Peloponnesus to start the revolution against the Turks. Their effort, however, ended in disaster, suffering many losses and significant destruction, which the Monastery of Dimiova did not avoid. The signs of this attack are still apparent in the church’s interior. The monastery was also threatened during German occupation, while in 1948 it sustained damage from a fire started by unknown individuals.

The monastery’s Katholikon, according to an inscription, was painted in 1663. The valuable Icon of Panagia Dimiovitissa is kept here. According to some, this icon dates back to the 8th or 9th century, that is to say, to the period of the Iconomachy, and is of the “Glykofillousa” type; while others consider it a later work, from the 16th-17th century, placing it in the “Eleousa” category. This is considered a miraculous icon. The church’s wooden carved chancel screen is also noteworthy, a work by Andreas Koronaios Anagnostis dating to 1773, apparently built to replace an older chancel screen that was destroyed, as its icons appear older and bear traces of fire.

The monastery started out as a monastery for men, but since 1960 it has been converted to a women’s monastery. It celebrates on the 15th of August each year, while on the 3rd of September, the Icon of Panagia is carried by 13 kilometre procession, accompanied by large numbers of believers, to Elaionas. After the procession, it is placed in the Church of Giannitsaiika, where it is exhibited for pilgrimage until the 13th of September, when it is taken back to the monastery. This custom dates back to 1843, when it took place for the first time to aid the population to cure their diseases and epidemics

Holy Monastery of Velanidia

The Holy Monastery of Zoodochos Pighi of Velanidia is located 6 kilometres north of Kalamata, built at an altitude of approximately 400 metres. According to the date written on the lintel, it was founded in 1679 and it owes its name to the agelong oak tree that was growing in its yard.

The Monastery played a very important role during the Greek Revolution. It was the lair and base of many important warriors, who also used it as their meeting place to discuss matters regarding the War. One remarkable fact about this Monastery is that it was the starting point for a plethora of warriors and others who rose against the Turks on March 23, 1821, with the aim to liberate Kalamata, something that they succeeded to do without shedding blood.

Unfortunately, the Monastery of Velanidia was among the many that fell prey to Ibrahim’s destructive force, who demolished it in 1825. The Monastery also had to face the destructive earthquake of 1986, when two nuns lost their lives. The Monastery was repaired with great efforts and today it operates as a convent.

The Monastery of Velanidia (long)

The Monastery of Velanidia is situated at an altitude of 350 metres, a few kilometres outside of Kalamata, and can be reached from the old Kalamata – Alagonia road. Information is provided in the Patriarchal Sigillium of 1727, according to which it is a “holy and revered patriarchal stavropegic monastery, dedicating its name to the Holy Panagia Chrysopigi at the location of Velanidia”. The Katholikon of the monastery was built in 1679, as recorded in an inscription on the lintel, and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi. The name “Velanidia” was given to it in reference to an ancient oak, which was uprooted by the great earthquake of 1884.

The history of the monastery is rich, connected to interesting events, principally during the pre-revolutionary and revolutionary years. Many fighters found refuge here to be saved or to regroup, and used it as their base; while important chieftains such as Kolokotronis, Papaflessas and Nikitaras regularly held their meetings here in matters of the revolution. This monastery also had a hand in the freeing of Kalamata, the first Greek city to be liberated from Turkish rule. On 23 March 1821, fighters and chieftains started out from the Monastery of Velanidia, and managed to free the city without a battle. This monastery also had an active role during the German occupation, when it offered refuge to the Greek Liberation Army and the resistance groups of Taygetos. As a result the Germans bombarded and completely destroyed it in 1943.

The monastery started out as a monastery for men, but since 1966 it has been a monastery for women. During its history it has been destroyed at various times; in 1825 by Ibrahim, in 1943 by the Germans, and in more recent times in 1986, with the large earthquake of Kalamata, when it required complete reconstruction. It celebrates every year on the first Friday after Easter, while on 23 March, the anniversary of the liberation of Kalamata, a procession with the holy flame starts out from here and ends at Martiou square, where it is welcomed with festivities.

Kalamata – Celebrations for the liberation of the city

On March 23rd, 1821, the rebellious Greeks achieved yet another victory against the Turkish conquerors, by liberating Kalamata and taking a big step towards their much desired freedom. This significant victory is annually gloriously celebrated in the city of Kalamata; a tradition preserved in the Messinian capital for many years.

The events include a parade, a race (the so-called “Road of Sacrifice”) with prizes for the winners, the advent of the Sacred Flame from the Monastery of Velanidia, a Doxology in the Church of Agioi Apostoloi -the historic church where the flame of the revolution was lit; a memorial service for the fallen heroes and, most importantly, a re-enactment of the city’s occupation, which ultimately led to its liberation. The admittedly impressive re-enactment awakens memories of Greece’s glorious past in locals and visitors alike.

Kalamata Folklore Museum

The Kalamata Folklore Museum is located at the city’s historical centre and was created in order to house archive material and heirlooms from the Greek Revolution of 1821. The building initially housed the Association for the Diffusion of Culture, which founded the Museum; before functioning as such, it was a teaching centre. As a museum it opened in 1973. In 1986 it closed in order to recuperate from the damages caused by the destructive earthquake of the same year, and it opened again in 2002.

In this Museum, which covers two floors, the visitor has the opportunity to take a glimpse into the everyday life of the wider area of Messenia, through theme sections regarding a series of urban occupations. He will also find a section dedicated to printing and binding, information about the town house of the beginning of the 20th century, information regarding the way of dressing and of course rich historical and archive material from the time of the 1821 Revolution.

The Museum of Folk Art in Kalamata (long)

The Museum of Folk Art in Kalamata is housed in a two-storey traditional building dating to the early 19th century, which was donated to the municipality of Kalamata by the Kyriakou family. It is a neoclassical edifice, with a wooden roof, a balcony, as well as an arched lintel with a skylight just above the main entrance.

This building originally housed the Society for the Propagation of Literature, and it was first used as a museum in 1973. The main objective was to create a museum in this area that would preserve and showcase examples representative of the modern culture that developed there, with an emphasis on the archives and the artefacts associated with the 1821 Greek War of Independence – an important chapter in the history of Greece. Visitors to this museum have the chance to obtain information through the exhibits on the urban professions, the art of weaving, the agricultural occupation and generally the everyday life of the inhabitants of the wider region of Kalamata. There is also an extensive collection of personal items and heirlooms belonging to the fighters who participated in the 1821 Greek Revolution.

On the ground floor, visitors will find general information about the area and sections with exhibits relating to agriculture and rural life, pottery, weaving and various urban professions, as well as exhibits from everyday life and artefacts from the Revolution that originated in Kalamata.

The first floor is dedicated to printing and bookbinding, with an impressive exhibition: Kalamata was the city that hosted the first printing house in liberated Greece, where the famous Proclamation of the Rebellious Greeks was printed and subsequently sent to the European Courts. On the same floor there is also a re-enactment of an urban house, as well as of a traditional café. In the G. Karelias Hall, visitors have the chance to see a traditional local costume, while there is also a hall dedicated to the post-Byzantine ecclesiastical art of the region.

After the devastating earthquakes of 1986, the museum was closed down for few years for the necessary restoration works. It reopened in July 2002 and since then it has been welcoming visitors every day, except Mondays.

Kalamata International Dance Festival

In 2012 took place the 18th Kalamata International Dance Festival, which is organized every summer by the International Dance Centre. The Festival is a permanent, recognised cultural institution, both in Greece and abroad, and it is one of the Prefecture of Messinia’s most important events.

The Festival has contributed to making Kalamata a point of a attraction for thousands of visitors each year, who have associated the name “Kalamata” with modern dance. Another important fact is that it helps promote Greek choreographers, by making their name known also outside of Greece.

Kalamata

Kalamata is built at the foot of Mount Taygetos and in the heart of the Messinian Gulf, it has a mild climate, well designed street planning, wide roads and a beautiful four kilometre-long beach, ideal for swimming. The small Byzantine church of Agioi Apostoloi, the Frankish castle, the railway park, the impressive museums, the numerous neoclassical buildings housing public services and cultural organizations, as well as the modern amphitheatre in the castle that every summer for the last 20 years hosts the International Dance Festival make Kalamata one of the most interesting cities in Greece and the ideal starting point to explore the wider area and its unique natural beauty, like the Messinian Mani, Mount Taygetos, Koroni, ancient Messini and many others.

Kalamata  (long)

Kalamata, the capital and the main port of the prefecture of Messinia, is situated where the Homeric Farai used to be. It has a population of 70,130 and it is built on the edge of Taygetus, in the heart of the Messinian bay. The city steadily opens toward the sea, with beautiful town planning, mild Mediterranean climate, wide roads and a beautiful beach, 4 km long, which is ideal for swimming.

The city played an integral role in the Greek War of Independence and was many times destroyed by enemies and natural disasters; from the 19th century onwards it has been an important commercial harbour of the Peloponnese and of southern Greece in general.

The city is crowned by the Castle, built by the 13th century Frankish rulers, the Villehardouins; every summer, for two decades now, the modern amphitheatre built there hosts the International Dance Festival and other cultural events. The small Byzantine church of Aghii Apostoli (whence the Greek Revolution began, on March 23, 1821) stands amidst a square and neighborhood intended for pedestrians, and the surrounding neighborhoods hide many neoclassical buildings which house offices or various cultural societies.

In Kalamata, an ideal city for walking around its pedestrian areas, where exhibitions and many cultural events are often held, one discovers tempting places that offer food or drink. The city also has: the excellent Archaeological Museum of Messinia, which is housed in the building of the Old Municipal Market and includes findings from all over Messinia, symbolically following the flow of river Paminus, the History and Folklore Museum, where there is also a section dedicated to book binding and typography, the Military Museum, the Contemporary Greek Art Gallery, with a very rich collection of works by Greek artists, mainly deriving from the 1950s and 1960s, the “A. Tassos” Municipal Gallery, which mainly includes works from the 1980s, as well as many other organizations which cultivate Music and the Arts.

Kalamata always was and continues to be a city of commerce and culture. From the 19th century onwards it became a great commercial and shipping centre, with the production of raisin and silk. Today its rich museums, the Municipal Railway Park, the paved square – a place for entertainment in the winter and for concerts in the summer, the marked bicycle lane and the pavement along the coastal road all contribute to making Kalamata one of the most interesting cities in Greece, as well as a central point for getting to know the surrounding area with its unique beauties, such as the Messinian Mani, Taygetus, Koroni, ancient Messini and others.

Kardamyli

Kardamyli is a historic coastal village of Messinian Mani, located about 35 kilometers southeast of Kalamata. The well equipped bastions and the tower houses of the famous rebellious families of Mani, built on the rugged rocky slopes, still dominate the scenery. In this place with the Homeric toponym, the imposing tower houses, the stone buildings and the churches appear ever charming and intact through time. The countless olive groves, the spectacular beaches, the well preserved stone houses with the lush gardens and the scenic little port of the village are only few of the attractions of this place. In this historic settlement, the castle of Troupakis – Mourtzinos is a fortified complex that reveals the financial and social status of the famous family. By foot or other means and at a close distance from Kardamyli, visitors can access the incredible gorge of Vyros, many Byzantine and Late Byzantine churches, like Agioi Theodoroi, the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Agios Spyridon, as well as many tower houses, abandoned castles, like this of Zarnata, springs, bridges, the beaches of Ritsa, Delfinia, Kalamitsi and Fonea, islet Meropi and gain a more comprehensive view about the authentic beauty of Messinian Mani.

Kardamyli (long)

Kardamili is an historic, coastal village in the Messinian Mani, situated just 35 km. southeast of Kalamata; it truly is one of the Peloponnese’s well-kept secrets, of rare beauty and wealth. On the one hand immersed in its Homeric past (it was one of the cities that Agamemnon promised Achilles, in order to promote their reconciliation) and at the same time an authentic Maniot city, identified with the location of its medieval castle with a tower complex, and on the other hand prosperous and enviable today for its contemporary face, Kardamili is always enchanting.

At the rough, rocky slopes, the well-equipped war towers and the adjacent tower houses of the formidable recusant and resistant Maniot families still dominate the area, like fortified summits. In this area with the Homeric name, the imposing tower houses, the stone houses and the churches all stand unchanged and with a natural charm.

Today, with all types of accomodation, from ultra-luxurious lodgings to camping sites, with transportation and sports facilities, with alternative tourism options and with attractive places for eating and entertainment, Kardamili is the centre whence one can get to know the inexhaustible natural and historical wealth of the Messinian Mani. All of the surrounding villages (Prosilio, Prastio, Lakkos, Exochori, Saidona, Lefktro, Stoupa, Tseria, Chora of Androuvista, Milia, Kastania and others), either on the mainland or on the coasts, hide powerful, local architectural wealth, impressive churches and chapels with brickwork, fountains, towers, all surrounded by rich flora, great sea view and the heroic stories of the local families, all in magical pockets of land, with amazing landscape.

The endless olive groves, the amazing beaches, the tidy stone houses with their verdant gardens, as well as the village’s picturesque small port, are only a few of the area’s beauties. It the historic settlement, the tower of Troupakis Mourtzinos is a fortified complex which testifies to the financial power and the affluence of this well-known family, with many turrets, courtyards, stairwells, an olive mill, storage rooms, all arranged today into an impressive Museum.

Setting off from Kardamili on foot or by vehicle, the visitor can get to know the amazing Viros gorge, approximately 20 km long, which leads to Sparta and is full of black pine and Cephalonian fir tree forests, as well as cedars, cypresses and walnut trees. The Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches, such as Aghii Theodori, Kimisi tis Panaghias and Aghios Spiridon, serve as reminders of the Orthodox faith’s solid past and are samples of excellent architecture. Also the many tower houses in the nearby villages and the abandoned castles, such as that of Zarnata, the arched fountains and the stone bridges are pleasing to the hikers and those passing by with vehicles. At the beaches of Ritsa, Delfinia, Kalamitsi and Fonea the clean sea is always relaxing, while the islet of Meropi stands off the coast like a small stroke of the painter’s brush, representing the beautiful and unique Messinian Mani.

“Karelia” tobacco factory, Kalamata

In 1888 a small tobacco factory opened in Kalamata, which was to become one of the most lucrative businesses not only in Greece, but in the whole of Europe. It was the “Karelia” tobacco factory, founded by brothers George and Efstathios Karelias.

The business really took off when the first automatic cigarette making machine was imported from England, something that was met with evident disapproval, since it would mean that many workers would be out of a job: when each cigarette maker and his assistant produced 2,000 – 3,000 cigarettes daily, the machine produced approximately 200,000 in seven hours! Despite the fierce reactions, the machine was finally installed here also, resulting in unbelievably high production rates. The industry’s “golden age” was during the 1950s, when various types of cigarettes were launched in the market, which quickly became popular all over Greece. Then, in 1973 the company entered the Athens Stock Exchange, and in 2000 the industry was the second biggest one in Greece. Despite the various disputes and unfortunate occasions that marked its course, the “Karelia” industry undoubtedly brought out the huge potential of the province to contribute to our country’s business activities, making its name heard beyond the Greek borders

The “Karelias” Tobacco Company in Kalamata

The Karelias factory in Kalamata has an active presence in the tobacco industry for more than one hundred years and holds one of the top positions in this particularly competitive market.

The factory was established in 1888 by the brothers Georgios and Efstathios Karelias. It was once a small business, providing the town of Kalamata and the nearby villages with tobacco products. Initially, since Messinia did not produce its own quantities, the tobacco was transferred by boat from Agrinio and Lamia. Later, the business passed into the hands of Georgios Karelias’ four sons: Andreas, Ioannis, Konstantinos and Efstathios. In 1916, Andreas bought the first automatic cigarette-making machine, which was revolutionary in the field of cigarette production.

During the interwar period, tobacco production in Greece reached its peak. Tobacco became one of the most important export products, with an annual production of approximately 30,000 – 40,000 tons, the majority of which was intended to be sold abroad. Gradually, the reputation of the Karelias tobacco company expanded throughout the Peloponnese. From being 29th among the Greek tobacco companies in 1929, in 1932 it climbed up to 9th place. After the war, Karelias cigarettes gradually became known throughout Greece. At that time, the company released several varieties, like Extra Karelia, Lux, Eklekta, Rex, Rekor, Lithi and many more that quickly became very popular. During the 1960s, Karelias was among the four leading companies of the sector and became a Société Anonyme.

A decade later, due to ever-increasing production, Karelias transferred its factory just outside the city, and in 1973 it entered the Athens Stock Exchange, a definitive sign of being prosperous and established. Today, Karelias daily produces more than 45,000,000 cigarettes, which is a huge leap forward compared to its initial production of about 3,000 cigarettes per day! This is a long and successful history, marked by hard work that connects the provincial city of Kalamata with one of the most profitable businesses in the world.

Koroni

Koroni is built amphitheatrically at the southern tip of the Messinian Gulf, and was already important during the Byzantine era. It was further fortified by the Venetians in the 13th century and, together with Methoni, it became the “Eye of Venice” for the trade of the so-called Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia in the eastern Mediterranean. It was attacked and seized many times over, after fierce battles, both from the Ottomans and the Venetians, and was liberated in 1828 by the armed forces of the French General Maison. Inside this castle with the turbulent history, which represents an exceptional example of fortification, there remains to this day a well-preserved residential complex. The picturesque little town outside the walls still charms the visitor, who will also immensely enjoy the walk inside the fortress, with its impressive gates, towers, bastions and the Byzantine churches, as well as the spectacular view to the Messinian Gulf that it offers. Koroni is surrounded by beautiful beaches, with easy access through lovely routes which are filled with perennial olive trees.

Koroni (long)

Koroni, amphitheatrically built at the south tip of the Messinian bay, is a small town with multicoloured houses and blossoming gardens; with a picturesque pier, many small tavernas and also an imposing castle at the edge of the peninsula.

Koroni was an important area already since Byzantine times; it was fortified, however, by the Venetians in the 13th century and, along with Methoni, it constituted the “eye of Venice” for the commercial activities of the Republic of Venice in the eastern Mediterranean. It was attacked and captured many times, after fierce battles, both by the Ottomans and the Venetians, and it was finally liberated in 1828 by the forces of the French general Maison.

The much afflicted castle, a sample of excellent fortification, retains to this day a residential unit within its walls. The picturesque town is always charming, even outside its walls, and a walk around the fortress offers the visitor unique view to the Messinian bay. You can reach the castle through a small path beginning from the port. Gateways, courtyards, towers, reservoirs and also Byzantine churches (Aghia Sofia), chapels of the Prodromos Monastery and small inhabited houses make the castle of Koroni something much more than just a tourist attraction. A small grove of palm trees, with the beautiful church of Panaghia Eleistra, is one of the surprises hidden within this Messinian corner. Off the coast of Koroni nestles the islet Venetiko, and a little to the west the islet of Schiza, inhabited at times, which hides an impressive cave to be explored, offering the incentive for a small sea trip.

Koroni is surrounded by many beautiful sandy beaches and inlets, easily accessible after traversing the enchanting landscape, full of olive trees. The vacation settlement and the wide beach of Finikounda, on the way to Methoni, as well as the road leading north, to Petalidi, unveil coasts and pretty locations, with small restaurants and beautiful view to the Messinian bay.

Kyparissia

Kyparissia is a lovely coastal town at the western part of the prefecture of Messinia. In ancient years it was known as “Kyparissientas” and belonged to the king of Pylos, Nestor. Its prosperity was outstanding and it even issued its own coin in 199 BC. The castle of Arcadia was built onto the foundations of the ancient acropolis of Kyparissia during the Byzantine era. This castle, which was also known as the “Tower of the Justinian” was altered many times over the centuries, depending on the tastes of its conquerors. But it still stands proudly until today and is definitely the jewel of the city.

Kyparissia is a notable town, with an excellent infrastructure and good organization. It is divided into Ano and Nea -or Kato- Poli. Ano Poli is the old traditional part, while Nea, which was recently built, constitutes its newer section.

Lagkada

Lagkada is a picturesque village in Messinian Mani, on the way from Kardamyli to Oitylo, that has been declared listed, having managed to preserve its morphological and architectural style intact. It’s built amphitheatrically on the slopes of a hill, offering a magnificent view to the Messinian Gulf, and is located between two valleys –of Emploutos and Vathy Lagkadi.

Lagkada is situated next to another traditional settlement -that of Thalames- and it appears to have been established during the reign of Marcus Aurelius, when the Romans conquered the neighboring Thalames, which was an important passage from Sparta to the Messinian shores. The Romans had their stables there, as well as their bodyguards, and this is why the area was also named Somatiana (Soma=body).

The settlement of Lagkada consists of stone tower houses, residences with tiled roofs and several Byzantine churches. Among the impressive towers of the area, two stand out. The four-storey tower of Oikonomeas, which dates back to 1757, and the five-storey tower of the Capuchins family, which dates back to the 19th century. Agia Triada is a lovely church of the 11th-12th century AD, while the Monastery of the Transfiguration of Christ the Savior impresses with its amazing frescoes and its century-long history. Nikon the Preacher of Repentance, a monk and missionary, who spread Christianity in Mani, died in Lagkada.

Messini

The municipality of Messini of the prefecture of Messinia is based in the city of Messini, which is built on the right bank of River Pamisos, approximately 10 kilometres from Kalamata. The city extends to the valley which according to Homer was called “Makar Pedion”, but it’s not associated however with any ancient location. The new Messini appears to have been established around 400 AD, when ancient Messini, which is located 20 kilometres to the north, was completely destroyed by the Visigoths of Alaric; something that made its residents move further to the south.

During the 1821 Greek Revolution, Messini was one of the first cities to participate in the Struggle, and even had a well-organized boot camp and shooting range. After the liberation of Greece, some residents abandoned their homeland and others began to move here from neighbouring places.

Today, Messini is a bustling and developing city, with promising prospects. It has an exceptional infrastructure, parks, fountains and the lovely beach of Mpouka, which has been awarded with an EU Blue Flag. It is also very culturally active, something that makes it an interesting destination throughout the year

Methoni

Methoni is located on the southwestern tip of Messinia and is identified as the Homeric town of Pidasos; thus it was fortified and has been of significance ever since ancient times. Its geographical location, on the sea routes from the West to the East, also settled its fate. It was a strategic location for the Romans, a base for the Byzantines, as well as an important commercial station during the Venetian rule. This is when the town was flourishing, fortified with a powerful castle, becoming an important intermediate station between Venice and the Holy Land, something that was depicted in engravings and maps of the time. The Ottomans claimed it many times and conquered it, but it was finally liberated in 1828. Today, the Fortress of Methoni is one of the most imposing in Greece, with impressive bastions, gates, walls and remnants from earlier buildings. On a small islet there is also a sea tower, known as Bourtzi. The lovely small town with its neoclassical buildings, approximately 1,000 residents and its incredible beaches, also boasts a unique island cluster. The Messinian Oinousses consists of the unique islets of Sapientza, Schiza, Agia Mariani, Venetiko, Dyo Aderfia, Mpompa and Avgo. All of them are included in the European Network Natura 2000, for their unique flora and fauna, but also for their incredible natural beauty.

Methoni (long)

Methoni, at the southwestern edge of Messinia, identified with the Homeric Pedasus, was a fortified and important city already since ancient times. The fortress of Methoni, easily accessible, is today one of the most imposing ones in Greece and still preserves impressive bastions, gates, walls, ruins of various buildings and on a small islet a sea tower, the much-photographed Bourtzi.

The beautiful small town outside the walls, which was designed by the engineers of the French Expeditionary Force of the French General Maison after the Naval Battle of Navarino (1827), retains neoclassical houses, has 1,000 inhabitants and with the beauties surrounding it by sea and its tourist facilities it offers the opportunity of a great vacation. In the horizon we can make out the island complex –and important habitat– that includes Sapienza, Schiza and Aghia Mariani. Sea excursions, swimming and nice taverns are only a few of the best things the area has to offer.

Methoni’s location, on the searoad from the West to the East, also determined its fate. A strategic location for the Romans, a base for the Byzantines and mainly an important trade centre during the Venetian Rule, the city flourished during that time, was fortified with a strong fortress, became an important stop between Venice and the Holy Land, was depicted in engravings and maps of that time and was many times claimed by the Ottomans, who captured it, but it was finally liberated in 1828.

From Methoni the visitor can set out to visit the many interesting sites with which the Messinian land abounds. The beautiful Pylos, a few kilometres to the north, with Niokastro, the beautiful view to the bay of Navarino and the fish taverns. The unique beach of Voidokilia, with the wetland of Gialova, Paleokastro and a little to the north the famous palace of the Homeric Nestor. To the east, toward the coast and the spreading beach of Finikounda and the other “eye of Venice”, as the beautiful castle and the even more beautiful settlement of Koroni used to be called, along with Methoni.

Monastery of Voulkano, old and new

On the summit of mountain Ithomi, near ancient Messene, on a natural rock, stands imposingly the old Monastery of Voulkano, overlooking the Messenian valley that extends in front of it. This Monastery was most probably built in the beginning of the 8th century by iconodule monks; according to tradition, the exact spot where the monastery was erected was shown to them by an icon of the Panaghia, with a vigil candle burning next to it.

In the 17th century this Monastery was abandoned, mainly because of the adverse weather conditions that made the monks’ lives unbearable. A new location was sought to the south, where the New Monastery of Voulkano was gradually built. Here today are kept the holy relics of several saints of the Orthodox faith, as well as important writings, documents, patriarchal sigils and, most importantly, the miraculous icon of Panaghia Voulkaniotissa, which bears the inscription: The Leading One, called thus in the Voulkano mountain.

The old Monastery today is called Katholikon and it is open for Mass only on August 15, while the New Monastery has always been in use as a men’s monastery.

The Old and the New Monasteries of Voulkanos (long)

The massive and imposing Monastery of Voulkanos was established in the 17th century and is located in the heart of ancient Messini, in a richly historical region. Its name, which appears in several different variations, such as Vourkano, Dorkano and Voulkani, most likely derives from a Byzantine ruler, who was in possession of the area surrounding Ithomi.

This monastery is not the first one founded in the area. The old Monastery of Voulkanos, the so-called Monastery of the Blesses Virgin Mary of the Summit or Virgin Mary the Epanokastritissa, was built on top of Mount Ithomi and is today widely known by the simple name Katholikon. This old monastery is situated in the location of the acropolis of ancient Messini. It is regarded as a building much older than that of the new monastery and it was reportedly built in 725 AD by iconodule monks. Its establishment is accompanied by a “founding legend”, characteristic of various monasteries. It is said that an icon of the Virgin Mary was found on the spot where the monastery was later erected, hanging from a bush, with a smouldering candle at its side.

The main church of the old monastery is particularly impressive. It is dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and was painted by the brothers Georgios and Dimitrios Moschos from the city of Nafplion in 1608. The church is a representative example of Late Byzantine art, being a two-aisled domed basilica (it was once three-aisled), built onto the ancient temple of Zeus Ithomata. It appears that material from this ancient temple was used for the construction of the church.

However, the location of the old monastery was somewhat inaccessible and unprotected against the elements, which made living conditions particularly difficult. So, in 1625, it was abandoned and a new one, further to the south, was set to be built in an area the monks bought from the father of the Agha of Androusa for 10,500 piastres. The main church of the new monastery was built in 1701 and it is celebrated at the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The church is a Byzantine domed cruciform that houses the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary Voulkaniotissa. Every year, on the 15th of August the icon is transferred with a special ritual to the old monastery and the celebrations begin. Moreover, on the night of the 19th-20th September, it is transferred to the city of Messini, escorted by believers. After a 20 kilometre hike, the icon is deposited for an eight-day pilgrimage, before being returned to Voulkano. This procession is carried out in commemoration of the divine intervention of the Blessed Virgin Mary during a plague that affected the entire area of Messinia circa 1755. Relics of many saints are also kept in the new monastery, while there is also a notable library with books both old and new. The monastery still operates nowadays as a male convent that boasts a profoundly remarkable work.

Municipal and Regional Theatre of Kalamata

The Municipal and Regional Theatre of Kalamata was founded in 1984 in the capital of the Prefecture of Messinia, with the aim of cultivating in the area an interest for theatre, Greek and international, classic and modern. For that reason, apart from performances, the Theatre also organizes lectures and presentations centering on theatre matters.

The Municipal and Regional Theatre is one of the area’s most important cultural institutions. It has two stages, the Central and the New stage, and so far it has presented more than 150 plays by foreign and Greek playwrights.

The Municipal Regional Theatre of Kalamata (long)

The Municipal Regional Theatre of Kalamata (DIPETHEK) was founded in 1984 and is one of the most important cultural institutions in the broader region. It has two stages, the Central and the New Stage where, during the winter, plays from the Greek and the global repertoire are staged, as well as plays for children. The winter plays are also staged outside of Kalamata, in the provinces, and some also in Athens. In the summer months, a classical play is staged in the Castle of Kalamata, which during this time participates in the largest theatrical festival in the country.

Alongside the plays themselves, DIPETHEK also organizes parallel activities which aim to acquaint the public with the play, offering a more complete experience. Thus, within the framework of the theatrical performance, speeches, discussions, exhibitions and various other events are also organized.

DIPETHEK aims to bring the broader public into contact both with Greek and with world theatre, offering – together with entertainment – an important educational experience. To date, it has presented over 150 plays from a broad repertoire, and is expected to continue on the same course. There was a serious setback early in 2012, when the building that houses the theatre suddenly caught fire, the cause of which was unknown, resulting in significant damage. Repairs started almost immediately, however, in order to cause the least possible delay in the continuation of its operation.

Municipal Conservatory of Kalamata

The Municipal Conservatory of Kalamata opened in 1985 and is housed in a beautiful, traditional 19th century building, south of the city’s castle. Its premises, which are fully equipped in order to cater to the needs of a modern musical education, have so far welcomed more than 10.000 students, many of whom have received scholarships, awards and other important distinctions. Many distinguished musicians in Greece and abroad have also taught here, some of whom were students of the Conservatory themselves.

More than 500 students study at the Municipal Conservatory of Kalamata every year. There are groups for all musical instruments and for various kinds of music, from classical to traditional to Byzantine. The Conservatory is known for its modern teaching methods, which are predominantly focused upon the importance of experiential learning. In this way, apart from the standard teaching of music, the Conservatory also holds educational seminars, lectures, workshops and more, which can be attended not only by students, but also by anyone else who might be interested. The Conservatory also helps organize a plethora of musical events in Kalamata, in collaboration with Greek and foreign cultural associations, such as the Greek National Opera, the Vienna Children’s Choir, the Camerata Orchestra and others. It also holds musical events at the Municipal Cultural Centre and the Regional Municipal Theatre of Kalamata, as well as out in the open, giving the audience the opportunity to become acquainted with the musical and cultural events of Greece and of other countries.

Municipal Railway Park, Kalamata

The Municipal Railway Park of Kalamata is an outdoors museum of great interest, for the added reason that it is the only one of its kind in Greece. Its plan had already been completed by 1986, the destructive earthquake of that year, however, set its opening a few years back. The Park is very close to the city centre and takes up a total expanse of 54 acres.

Here the visitor will find a plethora of railway exhibits, which were kindly provided mainly by the Hellenic Railways Organisation. The area has a lot of green, making it an ideal recreation park, with sports facilities, a playground and refreshment room.

Despite the fact that in the past the Railway Park was a very popular destination for young and old alike, today it looks almost abandoned, which means that it doesn’t attract as many visitors. From time to time new plans arise for its maintenance and further utilization, the realization of which would be a great occasion for the surrounding area.

Municipal Railway Park of Kalamata (long)

Amongst the various interesting museums that can be found in the city of Kalamata, the visitor will come across one that is very different: this is the Municipal Railway Park of Kalamata, an open-air museum, very close to the city’s central square; one of a kind in Greece and especially interesting.

This Municipal Park was created in 1986 at the initiative of the mayor at the time, Stavros Benos. It was inaugurated during that year, but was completed four years later, owing to the disastrous earthquake that struck the city in the September of 1986, putting a stop to any building activity. The Railways Organization of Greece (OSE) gave the city 24,600 square metres for the creation of the park, which included the two-storey building of the old “Kalamata Port” station, OSE land formerly used as coal storehouses, and a water tower. The municipality of Kalamata gave 28,000 square metres, while Agrotiki Bank gave 1,400 square metres.

The main idea of the park is that it should operate as a railway museum, and it therefore contains a multitude of railway exhibits, mainly coming from the OSE. In addition to these exhibits, the park also operates as a recreational park, with basketball and volleyball courts, two playgrounds, a small lake, as well as a canteen operating on the ground floor of the renovated “Kalamata Port” station. Thus it is also a recreational park in general, which once served as a green haven in the middle of the city of Kalamata. During the first days of its operation, in fact, a few days before the earthquake, it was visited by so many people in the evenings who would go there to take a stroll, that many lives were saved, as the earthquake found them there, and not inside a building that collapsed.

The railway exhibits are dispersed over various points inside the park. They include several cargo cars, steam cars, vehicle cars, passenger cars and wagons. One of the most noteworthy a visitor can see is a Baume Marpent wooden ISAP locomotive, dating to 1914; a rare exhibit, as very few of this type are left in Greece.

Unfortunately, the remarkable exhibits and the recreational spaces of the park have been abandoned for quite some time now, with efforts made over the years for their upkeep, which however have remained unfinished. With the appropriate maintenance and care, this open-air museum could again play the leading role befitting it among the museums of the region, and could become again a favourite destination for locals and visitors from other cities.

FROM THE MYTHS OF MESSINIA

The incredibly beautiful landscape of this part of the Peloponnese inspired its old inhabitants. This land, as well as others in Greece, created the Myths that personified nature, its children and its expressions. From this land, we saw Gods, Goddesses, demigods, heroes and founders of tribes that established cities and temples. This land hid deities, nymphs and demons in its trees, rivers, plants and caves. The guides for this journey in the myths of Messinia are Homer, Pausanias and his essay “Ellados Periigisis” (the Tour of Greece), as well as other essays of ancient Greek and Latin writers, like Herodotus, Thucydides, Pliny the Elder, Strabo, Apollodorus and many more. Many of their narratives are documented today in various inscriptions and other archaeological findings in many locations in Messinia, where systematic excavations and research were conducted.

So, the myths that weaved the oldest history of all reveal that the ancestor of Messinia’s first inhabitants was Lelegas, the king of Laconia. When Lelegas died, his older son Mylis became the king and his youngest son, Polykaon, remained a simple civilian until he married Messini, daughter of the king of Argos, Triops. Her father had quite the reputation and status and since Messini didn’t just want a simple civilian as her husband, they recruited men from Argos and Lakedaimona, who arrived in this land that got the name Messini, as a tribute to its queen. Initially there was no city with the name Messini. Much later, however, during the historic years it was indeed established. Among the cities Polykaon and his wife established was Andania, where Messini started the Eleusinian Mysteries, which were however first introduced by Kaukon, founder of Kaukones, a pre-hellenic tribe residing in Messinia. Thus, Messini or Messana was worshiped until the end of antiquity in her homonymous city, which was established in 369 BC by Epaminondas. Pausanias saw a temple with a golden statue of the deified queen in the local Asklepio, while she was also depicted in the coins of the city.

After a while and since none of Polykaon’s descendants was alive and probably after five generations, the inhabitants declared Periiris, the son of Aiolos, as their king. Periiris and his wife Gorgofoni, daughter of Perseas, had two sons, Afareas and Lefkippos, who after his death took over the kingdom of the Messinian land. Lefkippos reigned in the eastern Messinia and Afareas in the western. Afareas however held the greater power and established the city of Arini, which was named after his wife, and in this city he welcomed Nileas, the son of Kritheas, who was in turn son of Aiolos or possibly even of Poseidon. Lykos, son of Pandion, came to Arini, after having been exiled by his brother Aigeas. The oldest of Afareas’ sons was Idas and the youngest was Lygkeas, and according to Pindar, Pausanias says, he possessed such strong vision that he could see through the trunk of an oak. The sons of Afareas got into a fight with their cousins, Castor and Pollux, sons of Tyndareus, about some cattle they stole from Apollo. Pollux killed Lygkeas and Idas was struck by a thunderbolt. So the family of Afareas lost every one of its male offspring, and the kingdom of the Messinians was passed on to the son of Nileas, Nestor, who reigned over all but those from the family of Asclepius.

Lefkippos, king of the eastern part of Messinia that had Lefktro as its capital, married Filodiki and had three daughters, Arsinoe, Ialeira and Phoebe. Apollo, according to the Messinian version, fell in love with Arsinoe and together they had Asclepius, the demigod healer and doctor. However, Asclepius is also claimed by the city of Trikki in Thessaly and Epidaurus in Argolida. The Messinian Asclepius was raised by his nurse, Koronida, and later on Apollo took him to Pelion in order for Centaur Chiron to teach him all about herbs and medicine. The sons of Asclepius were Podaleirios and Machaon, which were famous doctors who participated in the Trojan War and were worshiped in Messinia up until the Roman era. The descendants of Asclepius, the Asclepiadae, were following very vivid customs and traditions in Messinia, as well as in Thessaly.

In Iliad there is a list that included all the cities that sent ships for the Trojan War and three of them were in Messinia. Ithomi, which was allegedly located on the walled hill on top of the remnants of ancient Messini, Oichalia, in the location of old Andania, and Trikki, which is most probably located on the northern part of the prefecture. To assuage his anger and to convince him to return to the battle, Agamemnon offered Achilles seven Messinian cities, Pidasos, which is today’s Methoni, Fares, in the location of Kalamata, and others.

The daughters of Lefkippos, Ialeira and Phoebe, became priestesses of female deities. Ialeira was the priestess of Artemis and Phoebe the priestess of Athena, but their father Lefkippos promised them that they would marry Idas and Lygkeas, sons of his brother Afareas. However, those two beautiful women, whose names mean Cheerful (Ialeira) and Lucent (Phoebe), were stolen by Castor and Pollux, the renowned Dioscuri. Afareas and his sons went after them but they got killed in the fight, which was probably also related with the sharing of Apollo’s herd that their cousins, Idas and Lygkeas, stole. Regarding the worship of Lefkippos’ daughters in Sparta, everything leads to the fact that the fate of eastern Messinia during those years, between the myths and reality, depended on Laconia.

So, Afareas gave the coastal land to Nileas, his cousin who was exiled by Pelias from Iolkos. Among the cities of this land was Pylos, where Nileas settled and later built his palace. Nileas married Chlorida and had 12 sons and one daughter. Nileas’ kingdom of Pylos was also reached by Hercules, who was seeking for someone to purify him because, in a moment of madness, he had committed murder. Nileas and eleven of his sons refused to proceed with the purification rituals. Only Nestor insisted that they had to help Hercules; his opinion, however, did not really influence anybody. So Hercules prepared an army and attacked the kingdom of Nileas. During the battle, Athena always being on Hercules’ side, all the sons of Nileas were killed, except for Nestor. According to tradition, there were many more conflicts with the neighbours of the kingdom of Nileas. At some point, the residents of Ilia invaded this land and stole animals, but Nestor confronted them, going to the battle on foot. He defeated Avgeias, took his chariot and blasted the hostile neighbours.

When Nestor took over the throne, he also inherited the kingdom of Afareas, when he and his sons were killed by Dioscuri, and as he was very old he followed the Achaeans in Troy, with ships and an army from 9 cities of his kingdom. His two sons were in the first line of fire, but he stood aside. Nestor, whose kingdom extended up to River Alfeios to the north and Mount Taygetos to the southeast, died when he came back from the horrible 10-year Trojan War and two generations later, the Dorians invaded his land.

At some point, the land couldn’t sustain all its inhabitants anymore. So, always according to the myths, Melanthos, one of Nileas’ sons, together with many people from his kingdom, left for Attica, where they were warmly welcomed. Maybe they left, as Pausanias is putting it, because when Heracleides arrived there from Arcadia with their leader Kresfontes, whose wife was Meropi, the old inhabitants agreed to share their land with the new conquerors who settled in the valley of River Pamisos. However, Melanthos, during a battle with Viotoi -rivals of the Athenians- defeated their leader and the Athenians, removed Thymoiti, last descendant of Thiseas, from being the king and declared Melanthos as their new king, who was then succeeded by Kodros, the last king of Athens. Of the sons of Kodros, one stayed and became the founder of the Athenian aristocracy and the greatest legislator of the city, Solon, was so proud of being a descendant of Kodros. The other son of Kodros migrated to Ionia in Asia Minor. It’s probable that due to the presence of the Achaic Messinians in Athens, the symbol of the city’s patron, Goddess Athena, was also the symbol of the Nileides, the owl.

And all these stories about the generations, the conflicts, the heroic events, the marriages and the successions that nurtured the cults and the temples are read in the ancient documents and evidenced in various archaeological findings. However, the verses of Homer always come to mind. Those that describe the journey of Tilemachus to Sparta when he was seeking for news about his father, Ulysses, and reached the sandy Pylos:

“We went to Pylos and saw Nestor,

who took me to his house and treated me

as hospitably as though I were a son of his own

who had just returned after a long absence;”

 Homer, The Odyssey, Book 3, page 35

Translated by Samuel Butler

 This text is published free of charge and can be freely distributed and redistributed in any medium without penalty. It is published under the fair use provision of United States Copyright Laws and is intended solely for non-profit private entertainment, educational and scholarly use. The text is based upon the edition found in The Internet Classics Archive by Daniel C. Stevenson, Web Atomics. World Wide Web presentation is copyright (C) 1994-1998, Daniel C. Stevenson, Web Atomics. All rights reserved under international and pan-American copyright conventions, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Direct permission requests to classics@classics.mit.edu. Adobe PDF formatting was performed by the Orange Street Press in 1998.

 The road that leads from the bay of Navarino to the hill of Egklianos is winding. The perennial olive groves, the cultivated fields, the hills with its bushes, the thyme, the crops and the vines compose a magical image, and the journey to the top is more like a journey in Homeric times. There is no doubt that the palace of Pylos was the kingdom of Nestor, son of Nileas. In his youth, the old knight -as Homer called him- participated in the war of the Lapiths against the Centaurs, the hunt of the Caledonian boar and the Argonautic Campaign. He married Evridiki and together they had seven sons and two daughters. He was just, wise, eloquent, tireless and an experienced warrior, a rational counsellor and a keen speaker. Nestor was the one who tried to reason with the Achaeans and make them reconcile in front of the walls of Troy, where he arrived with 90 ships and his sons Antilochos and Thrasymedes.

There, in the Mycenaean palace in Ano Egklianos, which was destroyed by fire around 1200 BC by an unknown reason, a surprise is awaiting. The long and narrow room with the clay tub constitutes a unique -for the Mycenaean world- finding. Decorated with painted designs on a base covered with plaster, it’s rather small, with a step and all the necessary -for hair washing- utensils very well preserved and scattered all around. It’s impossible not to visualize the scene from Odyssey, when the daughter of Nestor, Polykasti, bathes the son of Ulysses, Tilemachus, with water and essential oils -as expected-, before he eats and reveals the true purpose of his visit. The hot breeze, the murmuring of the foliage of the trees, the silent ruins and the broken pottery, the mysterious world of engraved syllables of Linear B’, Homer’s verses and the publications of the archaeologists create a setting where friendly and happy feasts, sacrifices, known heroes, warlike and hospitable, Gods and mortals unite. Like then… when in a sandy beach, Nestor and Tilemachus, the son of Ulysses, met, while people were engaged in a sacrifice, and headed towards the royal palaces, where they were offered wine before making a libation and then they arrived at the palace, as Thrasymedes, the son of Nestor, was making a sacrifice:

“Meanwhile lovely Polycaste, Nestor’s youngest daughter,

washed Telemachus.

When she had washed him and anointed him with oil,

she brought him a fair mantle and shirt,

and he looked like a god as he came from the bath

and took his seat by the side of Nestor.”

 Homer, The Odyssey, Book 3, page 35

Translated by Samuel Butler

This text is published free of charge and can be freely distributed and redistributed in any medium without penalty. It is published under the fair use provision of United States Copyright Laws and is intended solely for non-profit private entertainment, educational and scholarly use. The text is based upon the edition found in The Internet Classics Archive by Daniel C. Stevenson, Web Atomics. World Wide Web presentation is copyright (C) 1994-1998, Daniel C. Stevenson, Web Atomics. All rights reserved under international and pan-American copyright conventions, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Direct permission requests to classics@classics.mit.edu. Adobe PDF formatting was performed by the Orange Street Press in 1998.

Navarino (short)

Navarino refers to an area, a battle, a bay, a castle… it is, in other words, for Messinia, the Peloponnese and the whole of Greece, a word, a myth and a legacy. During Homeric times it was known as Pylos, the kingdom of Nestor. In Byzantine times, at around the 6th century, the area was captured by the Avars, from whom the place name Navarino most probably derives (“of the Avars”, “neo (new) Avarino”); Navarino is now the name of the bay of Pylia and also of its fortresses (mainly Paleokastro).

At the bay of Navarino took place the liberating Naval Battle of Navarino (1827) between the Ottoman-Egyptian fleet and the naval force sent by the European allies, which finalized the area’s and the whole of Greece’s new state of freedom. The island of Sphacteria, which closes the bay to the west, was marked many times during its historical course by battles and sieges and it has been adorned with monuments. Today one can visit Sphacteria on small sea trips from the port of Pylos. North of the bay there is the lagoon/wetland of Gialova (Divari), the southernmost station of the migratory birds on their way from the Balkans to Africa.

Navarino (long)

Navarino refers to an area, a battle, a bay, a castle… it is, in other words, for Messinia, the Peloponnese and the whole of Greece a word, a myth and a legacy. During Homeric times it was known as Pylos, the kingdom of Nestor. In historic times it remained a flourishing town. In Byzantine times, at around the 6th century, the area was captured by the Avars, from whom the place name Navarino most probably derives (“of the Avars”, “neo (new) Avarino”); Navarino is now the name of the bay of Pylia and also of its fortresses (mainly Paleokastro).

The distribution of the Byzantine Empire by the Franks and the Latins of the 4th Crusade makes Nicholas II of Saint Omer the ruler of the area and the founder (1278) of Paleokastro, a fortified observation post whence they could control the sea and the coasts. What followed was conflicts, the alternation of conquerors, Franks, Venetians, Navarrese, Genovese, until the appearance (1460) of the Ottomans, who finally chose the newly-built (1573) Niokastro as their new base. The unsuccessful Orlov Revolt (1770) resulted in atrocious slaughterings of the local people by the Albanians. At the bay of Navarino took place the liberating Naval Battle of Navarino (1827) between the Ottoman-Egyptian fleet and the naval force sent by the European allies, which finalized the area’s and the whole of Greece’s new state of freedom.

In this bay, which is one of the largest natural and safe harbours in the Mediterranean, (length 4,800 m., width 3,600 m., sea depth up to 50 m.), lies Sphacteria, an island that acts as a barrier from the rough seas. Today it can be reached by small cruise boats that leave from the port of Pylos. A treeless island today, 4,000 m. long, 500-1,000 m. wide and just 150 m. tall, Sphacteria leaves open a long passage from the southwest, which is also the entrance and anchor point of the ships in the bay, as well as a strait that is impassable for large ships, the strait of Sykia, to the north. On the long body of Sphacteria, where battles and memories have left their mark, the memorial monuments stand as consolation: the monument for the Greek warriors who died in Ibrahim’s atrocious massacre (1825); the monument of the French officer and commandant of Koroni, Alexis Maillet; the tomb of Napoleon’s nephew, the philhellene Paul Marie Bonaparte; the honourary marble stele for the Italian philhellene Santarossa; and a monument in honour of the Russians who died in the famous Naval Battle of Navarino.

The wetland has been declared as an area of archeological interest, extending on 6,000 acres, between the settlement of Gialova and the bay of Voidokilia. Known also as Divari (by the Latin word vivarium which means “fish hatchery”), it is the southernmost station of the migratory birds on their way from the Balkans to Africa. This wetland provides refuge to 254 bird species and also to the rare in the whole of Europe, nearly extinct African chameleon. The observatory station of the Ornithological Society gives the visitors the chance to learn and to observe this shallow, brackish water lake, which has been included in the Natura 2000 network.

Niokastro – Pylos

Near the entrance to the port of Pylos lies Niokastro, otherwise known as Neo Navarino, which stands as a vigilant guard, protecting the area from the vulnerable side of the sea. As many of its construction elements testify, Niokastro is an Ottoman creation; its construction started sometime after 1573, after the defeat of the Turks in the naval battle of Nafpaktos two years earlier.

Niokastro was named thus in order to distinguish it from Paleokastro or Paleo Navarino, which was a Frankish creation and dominated the old port. Like almost all castles in the wider area that roughly belong to the same period, Niokastro was witness to many onslaughts of several ambitious conquerors (Venetians, Turks, Russians), who left their mark on its premises. For a short while it was also conquered by the Greeks during the Revolution, but they didn’t manage to hold on to it for long.

Despite all the hardships it faced throughout the centuries, Niokastro is still one of the most beautiful and best preserved castles in Greece.

Niokastro (long)

Niokastro is an impressive fort in the Bay of Navarino, built by the Ottomans in 1573. In was constructed in order to control the south entrance of the bay, since the north side (Sykia Straights or Faltsa Bouka) and its port could not be used due to sedimentation.

The Ottomans occupied it up until 1686, and it subsequently passed into the hands of the Venetians under General Morosini until 1715, when it was recaptured by the Turks. In 1816 it was captured by the pasha, Ibrahim and his army, while in 1828 it was liberated by the French general, Maison. It was later abandoned, to be used again during World War II by the Germans and Italians, who used it as a base for their operations. After the end of the war, it was shortly used as a prison until it was handed over to the Archaeological Service. The passage of all these conquerors naturally left its mark on the fort, which underwent several changes, additions and general interventions.

Niokastro is divided into two parts: Kato Kastro, the largest part, with a surface of 80,000 square metres; and Epano Kastro, which contains strong embattlements and bastions. The fort today consists of a hexagonal acropolis and its rampart – which was created during the period of the Venetian occupation, offering an exceptional view to the island of Sfaktiria – a defensive wall, four cylindrical towers and two bastions; the west (the so-called “Seventh”, which is a little older than the rest of the fortification, controlling the entrance to the port) and the north one (“Cafer Pasha” or “Santa Maura”), which controls the port).

Very few buildings survive intact inside the walls. One is the gothic style Church of Metamorfosi tou Sotiros, which was built by the Franks, was later converted into a mosque and then became a Christian church again. The building of General Maison is also important, which today houses offices, and in the near future will house the Archaeological Museum of Pylos. Thus, Niokastro is slowly developing into a cultural venue, of unique importance for the region’s history.

Paleokastro –Pylos

Paleokastro, on the northern side of the Navarino Bay, was built around the 13th century by Franks and is the oldest of the two castles located in the area. In 1573 it gave its way to Niokastro, which was built by the Ottomans near the entrance to the port of Pylos.

According to archaeological findings, the castle must have been built above the ruins of an ancient acropolis of the Classical period. Next to the castle is the famous cave of Nestor, mentioned also by Pausanias: there, according to tradition, the young Hermes hid the 50 cows he had stolen from Apollo. According to another legend, this cave was used as a stable by Nileas and his son, Nestor.

The castle stands imposingly on a rock 200 m. above ground and is surrounded by steep cliffs. It is a rectangular structure that includes square and round towers. Despite the fact that access to it is not restricted, and that it is kept in relatively good condition, Paleokastro is closed today because roaming around its premises may be dangerous.

Palaiokastro (long)

Palaiokastro, or Palaio Navarino, or the Castle of Koryfasio, as its name reveals, is the oldest castle in the Pylos region, built in the 13th century by crusader Nicholas II de Saint Omer, of French origin, also known as the Lord of Thebes, whom the Greeks called Santameris or geronikolas.

Palaiokastro held a leading role in all the battles that took place around Pylos, until it was abandoned for the newer castle (Niokastro) and took on a secondary role.

The castle followed the common fate of the Greek castles of the period; constantly changing owners, depending on the prevailing aspiring conqueror of the moment. In the 14th century the castle was occupied by the Genovese, who used it as a base for their war activities in Messinia against the Venetians. The latter, disturbed by the threat of the Genovese to their commercial interests, attempted to buy the castle several times. In 1423 they managed to buy it from the Prince of Achaea, Centurione II Zaccaria, during the second Venetian-Turkish war. The castle however finally fell into the hands of the Ottomans. After their successive victories, the Ottomans built the new castle (Niokastro), which served them better geographically, leaving a rudimentary guard at Palaiokastro. After the sixth Venetian war, in 1686 the castle passed once again to the Venetians, while with the next Venetian war it fell back into Ottoman hands. After the Ottomans left the Greek territories in 1828, the castle was left to ruin.

The view offered by Palaiokastro to the Ionian Sea and the exceptionally beautiful Bay of Voidokoilia is truly enchanting. Access to the site, however, is accompanied by repeated safety warnings for the visitor, as there may be hidden dangers.

Peristeria hill – Tholos Tombs

Northeast of Kyparissia, near the village of Myro, in northern Messenia, rises the hill of Peristeria, which seems to have been inhabited already since the Middle Helladic period (c. 20th – 17th century B.C.), while there also exist a few findings from even earlier times.

At the hill of Peristeria special findings have been preserved of an ancient settlement that was founded and flourished there until the end of the Late Helladic period: houses, a palace and, most importantly, three tholos tombs, which contained great treasures. The largest of the three, which is also the newest, is the largest tholos tomb in Messenia and the whole of western Peloponnese. The tomb had already been violated since Mycenaean times, we can surmise from the findings, however, that it had been very rich. The oldest of the three, which is the smallest, was intended for a small number of burials and it, too, has preserved several golden burial offerings. Lastly, another large tomb was discovered, with a capacity of more than 15 persons, which seems to have been intended for simple citizens, since it didn’t include many findings made of metal.

These tholos tombs were the reason why the area was given the name “Mycenae of the Western Peloponnese”, since they bear great similarities with the majestic burial monuments of Mycenaean architecture.

The Hill of Peristeria – The Arched Tombs (long)

The imposing hill of Peristeria is located in northern Messinia, a short distance from the village of Myro and right alongside the southern shores of River Kyparissienta. The hill is accessed only via its southern side, since the other three sides are very steep, creating a natural fortress. Drosopigi is located on its northwest side and is a rich spring, which possibly decisively contributed to the habitation of the area. In ancient times, the hill was submerged under the sea, as indicated by the great number of pebbles found in the area, which were also used as building material for the monuments constructed on the hill.

The hill of Peristeria has been described as “the Mycenae of the Western Peloponnese”, since it is one of the most important hubs of the early Mycenaean culture in Greece, with a significant settlement and three arched tombs, one of which dates back to the 16th century and is the largest excavated in Messinia. This area appears to be particularly important, since there is evidence of habitation in the nearby hills of Kokorakou and Karageni, running throughout the Mycenaean era. Peristeria was the hub of all these settlements, as indicated by evidence of dense habitation, as well as of the rich tombs and the valuable artefacts they contained.

The arched tombs appeared during the late Helladic II era (1600-1400 BC) and constituted a typical example of Mycenaean architecture. This kind of tombs were created so as to resemble houses, with a corridor that led to the chamber, which is covered by a dome. After the burial of the dead, the entrance was sealed with stones. The arched tombs of Messinia were usually intended for families.

At the centre of the hill of Peristeria there is an imposing arched tomb, the largest and the newest of the area. Around this tomb there was a burial mound, surrounded by a retaining wall. It seems that it was used for several burials, but none have been preserved. Nevertheless, several golden artefacts and jewellery, a necklace of amethyst beads, as well as a scarab made of amethyst did actually survive. The second arched tomb was a little older and also hid various golden, silver and bronze artefacts, such as gold leaves, bronze vases and swords. At some point this tomb was no longer used, because its dome collapsed. The third arched tomb is the oldest of the three and is located to the west of the hill. It is the smallest one and was used for very few burials, which were however accompanied by rich golden offerings.

Petalidi

Petalidi is built in the location of the Homeric town of Aipeia, in the heart of the Messinian Gulf, at a distance of a merely few kilometres from Kalamata. It is a lovely village that has been substantially developed over the last few years. Archaeological findings in the area from the prehistoric era, as well as from historical times, most of which are housed in the Museum of Kalamata, attest to its continuous inhabitation, while relics from the sites around the settlement are equally interesting. The area produces olives, olive oil, figs, citrus, vegetables, grapes and wine, while being the perfect summer holiday destination, since the sea is crystal clear, it has an excellent tourist infrastructure and the nearby attractions are among the most significant of the region of Messinia.

Petalidi (long)

Twenty six kilometres from Kalamata, on the way to Koroni, the road leads to Petalidi, which abounds with olive and fig trees. The one-time fishing village, which has been built near the location of the Homeric city Aepeia, in the cove of the Messinian bay, in a beautiful location, has developed touristically during recent years, with ample accommodation facilities, many restaurants and taverns, as well as a port for sailing and fishing boats.

The area’s archaeological findings, from prehistoric and also historic times, most of which are kept in the Museum of Kalamata (carved stones, marble columns, inscriptions, statue fragments, sarcofaghi etc.), testify to the area’s constant habitation; also of interest are the ruins found at the archaeological sites around the settlement. North of Petalidi archaeological findings of the Middle Helladic and also the Early Helladic period have come to light. In the area one will also find the Byzantine churches of Zoodochos Pighi and Aghios Nikolaos.

The houses that reach the seafront and the small bays where the lush Messinian vegetation ends, the shady square with its impressive church and the nearby Kalamaki, with its beautiful beach, also Chrani and Episkopi, which are always surrounded by lush vegetation, become destinations that offer variety to your beautiful stay in Petalidi. Kalamata, also, always vibrant and with many cultural events during the summer months, as well as the more quiet areas, all the way to Koroni, at the western side of the Messinian bay, will satisfy even the most demanding of visitors.

The area produces olives, olive oil, figs, citrus fruits, various horticultural products, raisins and wine; it is an ideal summer destination, since the sea is amazing, the facilities modern and the sights in the surrounding area of the most important in Messinia.

Presentation of the Theotokos Church

In Prasteio, a village of Outer Mani, the visitor will find the Presentation of the Theotokos Church, built in the beginning of the century. The most typical feature of this church is its majestic campanile, which is said to be the tallest one in Greece. This campanile is a remnant of the older church, which was demolished in order to build the new one.

Regarding the old church, little is known. According to the people’s testimonies, its stones were transferred by the students to the school, and they were used to build its surrounding wall. At the campanile one can see a religious painting depicting the archangels Michael and Gabriel in supernatural size. The new church, which today is the parish of Prasteio, does not have any religious paintings or interior decoration. In it, however, are kept some very old icons from older churches, who found here refuge both from the damage of time and the illicit antiquities dealers.

The Church of the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (long)

The Church of the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary currently forms part of the parish of Prasteio, a village in Exo Mani. It was rebuilt at the beginning of this century in the location of the older church, which was demolished for the construction of the new one. The only preserved part was the magnificent bell tower, considered to be the tallest in Greece, reaching 40 metres in height.

Not much is known about the old church, beyond the fact that it boasted many murals, according to the testimonies of older residents. It is also said that after its demolition, its stones were transferred by the students of the village’s school and used for the construction of the school’s surrounding wall. Sections of the old murals from the church are still visible on this wall.

The new church was built according to the Byzantine standards. Its wooden templon dates back to 1842. To the northwest, the bell tower dominates, being a remnant of the old church, and its construction indicates the architectural influence of the Italians, the Turks and the Byzantines. At the level of the first gallery of the bell tower, there is a painting depicting the Archangels Michael and Gabriel in magnitude. Michael appears to be stepping on the neck of a sinner, who is lying before him. There are also various notable representations carved into its stone. Due to the natural wear and tear and the strong earthquake of 1926, the bell tower was badly damaged, but eventually restored. Except from the remnants of the old church, the new church does not have any frescoes and its decoration is poor, probably due to financial difficulties.

Pylos Lagoon (Divari)

The wetland between the settlement of Gialova and the bay of Voidokilia, which has been declared as an archaeological site, spreads over 6,000 acres of land and is known as Divari (from the Latin vivarium, which means “fish hatchery”); it’s depth does not exceed 4 m. This lagoon is the southernmost stop of the migratory birds of the Balkans travelling to and from Africa. The wetland offers refuge to 254 bird species, such as herons, cormorants, kestrels, Aegean seagulls, flamingos, ospreys, imperial eagles and other aquatic birds. The area also hosts the very rare, almost-extinct in Europe species of the African chameleon. Apart from the ferrets, foxes and weasels that hunt its eggs, this serpent is mainly endangered from the overwhelming human presence, especially during the summer months, with the large tourist crowds. The Ornithological Society’s observation station gives the visitors the opportunity to learn and to observe this shallow, brackish-water lake, which has been included in the Natura 2000 network, and to roam around the paths that describe Gialova’s different ecosystems.

Pylos Lagoon (Divari) long

The wetland between the settlement of Gialova and the bay of Voidokilia, which has been declared as an archaeological site, spreads over 6,000 acres of land and is known as Divari (from the Latin vivarium, which means “fish hatchery”); it’s depth does not exceed 4 m. The wetland can be divided into brackish-water lagoons and fresh-water marshes. Behind them there is an in-between zone of arable land and maquis. The main human occupations are fishing, cattle breeding, agriculture, tourism and hunting.

This lagoon is the southernmost stop of the migratory birds of the Balkans travelling to and from Africa. In the autumn the birds stop here, at the southernmost European wetland, before they fly over the Mediterranean and the Sahara, a journey of 3,000 km. In the spring they follow the reverse route, abandoning their winter homes in Central Africa and migrating to Europe in order to breed.

The larger birds, such as the herons, kestrels and Eurasian curlews, arrive at the lagoon in waves during the day and stay only for a few hours, in order to rest. Before dusk, they all fly away together. The smaller birds, such as the charadriiformes, usually arrive at night, stay in the wetland for many hours in order to feed, and most often fly away in the early evening.

The birds, migratory and non, include: herons (Ardea purpurea and Ardeola ralloides), Little Egrets (Egretta garzetta), bitterns (Ixobrychis minutus), storks (C. ciconis), ducks (T. tadorna), flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber), Marsh sandpipers (Tringa stagnatilis), wood sandpipers (Tringa glareola), Pratincoles (Glareola pratincola), gulls (Larus melanocephalus), terns (Gelochelidon nilotica, Sterna albifrons), Gull-Billed Terns (Sterna nilotica), cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo), egrets (Egretta garzetta), Great Egrets (Casmerodius albus), Glossy ibis (Plegadis falcinellus). Of the 254 species that have been recorded in recent years, 79 have been recognized as endangered in Europe and 4 as endangered worldwide.

The main threats are fishing, the increased saltiness in the fresh-water marshes –as a result of drawing water for agricultural use, both from the surface and from underground– and also hunting and the filling of the wetland with debris. The low agricultural intensification, coupled with intensive fishing, the drawing of underground water and the ever-increasing development in tourist facilities are the biggest threats to the wetland. The area has been nominated as a Special Conservation Area.

The wetland offers refuge to 254 bird species, such as herons, kestrels, Aegean seagulls, flamingos, ospreys, imperial eagles and other aquatic birds. The area also hosts the very rare, almost-extinct in Europe species of the African chameleon. Apart from the ferrets, foxes and weasels that hunt its eggs, this serpent is mainly endangered from the overwhelming human presence, especially during the summer months, with the large tourist crowds. The passage of vehicles destroys both the vegetation (bushy-ammophilous), which is the species’ main abode, and the nests, which are formed in the sand along the coast. In recent years, a decrease in the animal’s size, a delay in its breeding and egg-laying and a relocation of its nests towards more remote areas has been observed.

Gialova (it means “flat coast”) is surrounded by olive and citrus trees, as well as gardens and vines that flourish in damp soil. It is a touristically developed area which satisfies the requirements for modern vacations, with its sandy beach pulsating with life, especially during the summer months, something that at the same time becomes the most immediate danger for the survival of the wetland.

Not very far, the waves of the Ionian sea created a unique part of the ecosystem, the impressive for its shape, colours, sandy beach and emerald green waters bay of Voidokoilia, one-of-its-kind in the whole of the Mediterranean. The cedars and the sand dunes protect the ground and the sand is preserved, despite the strong winds blowing in the bay. From above it resembles a sea mushroom, with a dark blue jellyfish peeking through its waters.

The Ornithological Society’s observation station gives the visitors the opportunity to learn and to observe this shallow, brackish-water lake, which has been included in the Natura 2000 network, and to roam around the paths that describe Gialova’s different ecosystems.

Pylos

Pylos is located on the southwestern tip of the Peloponnese and has a population of 2,500 people. It combines the spectacular colours of the Ionian Sea with the fertile Messinian land and boasts one of the safest ports in the Mediterranean. The bay of Navarino and the isle of Sfaktiria -apart from their obvious beauty- remind visitors of this place’s historical fate. The brand new, dazzling town, with its beautiful houses around the scenic port that took its name from the neighbouring Homeric Pylos of the famous King Nestor, was designed after the well-known Battle of Navarino (1827) by the French engineers of General Maison and was inhabited by people from Asia Minor, the Ionian Islands and the rest of the Peloponnese. Niokastro, which stands at the end of the settlement, is one of the most well preserved castles in Greece. With a lovely pine forest and great monuments, the old aqueduct, the Square of the Three Admirals, the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Marine Antiquities, the house of the Olympic medallist K. Tsiklitiras, the “NESTOR” Institute of Astroparticle Physics and other important attractions, historical sites, castles, lovely beaches and wetlands, Pylos is an ideal destination throughout the year, as well as the perfect starting point to explore the nearby area.

Pylos(long)

Pylos is a radiant, newly-founded town, with beautiful houses built around a small port, resembling a painting. Located at the southwestern tip of the Peloponnese, with approximately 2,500 residents, it borrowed its name from the nearby Homeric Pylos of the famous Nestor, was designed after the famous Naval Battle of Navarino (1827) by the French engineers of general Maison and was inhabited by people from Asia Minor, the Ionian islands and the Morea (the name of the Peloponnese during the Middle Ages). It spreads amphitheatrically on a fascinating landscape painted in the colours of the Ionian sea and the Messinian land, and it opens up like a colourful flower in one of the safest moorings in the Mediterranean, with the island of Sphacteria defining its beauty the bay of Navarino, the great protagonist in its historical fate, in its embrace. Pylos can also be visited on small sea trips.

Bright, white stone houses, with colourful flowers, yards, roofs, balconies, alleys, steps, and in its centre the Trion Navarchon square and the arched ground floors of the surrounding buildings, palm trees and most of all, lush plane trees which offer shade to the inhabitants and the visitors during their time of rest, with the fish taverns promising and delivering exquisite seafood creations.

High up on the hill rises the church of the Dormition of the Theotokos (“Kimisis tis Theotokou”). At the port stands the well-preserved Town Hall and near it, looking proudly toward the sea, the renovated two-storey house of the Olympic medalist Kostis Tsiklitiras, which will house in the future the Library-Art Gallery of the Municipality of Pylos. The preserved Old Gymnasium houses the “Nestor” Institute for Astroparticle Physics, of the National Observatory of Athens, where one of the most important scientific experiments worldwide is being carried out.

From the edge of the settlement one can easily access the castle, one of the best-preserved fortresses in Greece and an excellent sample of fortification architecture from the 16th century onwards. Niokastro was built by the Turks in 1573 and was completed during the time when the Venetians dominated the area (1686-1715). During the following conflict periods it was renovated, altered and added to. It has an imposing front gate, strong bastions, turrets, a hexagonal acropolis, the Museum of Underwater Archaeology and the noteworthy collection of

René Puaux, which is housed in general Maison’s quarters. The church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (“Metamorfosis tou Sotiros”) stands in the centre. A walk around Niokastro reveals the magical view to the bay of Navarino and the open Ionian sea.

Niokastro, with its amazing pine forest and monuments, the old aqueduct and the important sights, the historical sites (Nestor’s palace), the castles (Paleokastro), the beaches (Voidokilia, Gialova) and the habitats (Gialova), they all make Pylos a proud destination and a great starting point where one can set out for excursions to the nearby areas.

Saitopolemos (The Shuttle War) – Kalamata

Every year, on the evening of Easter Sunday at 8.30pm on the western beach of Kalamata, at the old slaughterhouses, the locals revive the tradition of Saitopolemos. This peculiar local custom dates back centuries, during the Turkish occupation, when the Greeks displayed great heroism, as well as resourcefulness, during the battles against the Turks. According to the legend, the Messinians managed to stop the Turkish cavalry by constructing shuttles filled with explosives. The Turks outnumbered them, but the Greeks managed to defeat them with their trick.

For the Shuttle War, the participants are divided into the so called “mpouloukia” (groups of people), after being properly prepared, by wearing their traditional costumes and armed with the shuttles they themselves constructed by cardboard tubes filled with gunpowder. This tradition is particularly popular among the locals and the visitors during the Holy Week, since it is indeed unique and triggers memories from the glorious struggles of the Greeks.

Sapientza and the Perennial Broadleaf Forest

Sapientza is an islet of the Messinian Oinousses cluster and is the second biggest after Schiza. It’s an island with lush vegetation, a rare flora and a total area of 9 square kilometres. In 1986, Sapientza was declared as a “listed natural monument” and it was included in the European Network Natura 2000, together with the neighboring Schiza and the area around cape Akritas.

Sapientza in Italian means “wisdom” and, indeed, nature here has revealed all its wisdom. In the center of the island there is a huge area covered with typical Mediterranean vegetation of perennial broadleaf weeds, which however don’t have the usual shape of a bush, but they are trees that surpass 10 meters in height! The fauna of the island is equally interesting and includes the famous Kri-Kri (wild goats) that live here in large herds, as well as wild sheep and many species of birds.

Sapientza (long)

The islet of Sapientza is located off the southwest shores of Messinia, across from Methoni, and is one of the 7 islands that form the cluster of the Messinian Oinousses. Historically, Sapientza was claimed by many, due to its strategic location -at the crossroads between Italy and the Middle East-, as well as due to its safe harbor. In 1209 it fell into the hands of the Venetians and many centuries later, after the liberation of Greece from the Turks, it was returned to the Greeks. It was claimed by the British, as part of the Ionian Islands between 1847 and 1850, during the notorious “Don Pacifico Affair” that was a conflict between Britain and Greece.

Porto Loggo is the harbor of Sapientza and is a well-protected cove. A trail starts from there, leading to the famous lighthouse of the island, which is an impressive British construction of 1890 with a spectacular view. The famous, unique in Europe, perennial broadleaf forest dominates the center of the island in an area of 240 square metres. This forest was basically the reason the islet was declared as a “listed natural monument” and included in the European Network Natura 2000. The rarity of this forest is that its broadleaf weeds surpass their standard height, creating dense vegetation, which exists there for about 15,000 years!

In the centre of the island there is a plateau covered by orange-yellow rocks, which was formed by deposits of vast amounts of pollen over thousands of years. This plateau is named Spartolakka and is a substantial source of information for scientists regarding the dating of the forest and the surrounding area. The famous “Well of Oinousses” is located on the southwest side of the island and is actually the deepest point in the Mediterranean at 5,121 metres.

The island has a lovely, well-protected beach, named Ammos, which is located on its northern part and is easily accessible. Findings and traces of shipwrecks were also found on the northern tip of Sapientza and at a shallow depth. The most important one includes the columns from the Grand Peristyle from Caesarea of Palestine, dating back to the first century AD. This exact location, named Cape Karsis, attracts many keen divers due to the interest of the seabed.

Schiza

Schiza is the biggest island in the Oinousses cluster, with an area of 12 square kilometres. Historically, it was known as Kamprera or Kavrera, and it appears to have been inhabited mainly during the Roman era, as evidenced by findings and traces of a settlement. Since then it was occasionally used by fishermen for mooring, while in 2001 it only had 2 permanent residents. Schiza is included in the Natura 2000 Network, together with the nearby Sapientza.

The most important attraction of the island is a cave with stalactites and stalagmites, which is called “Mavri Troupa” (Black Hole), due to the tradition, according to which it was a hideout for pirates, but also because of its mysterious and imposing ambiance. Even though it can be visited, this cave has not yet been explored and this means that the “treasures” it might hide still remain well stashed.

Stoupa

Stoupa is located approximately 45 kilometres from Kalamata, on the shores of the Messinian Mani, and with Mount Taygetos in the background. It has two beautiful sandy, crystal clear and well-organized beaches, several isles, caves and castles, offering visitors the chance to enjoy lovely evenings with delicious dinners under the stars. Stoupa has an exceptional tourism infrastructure, satisfying every taste, and offers the opportunity for various water sports, while the nearby area impresses with its stunning natural beauty, imposing architecture, lovely Byzantine buildings and magical little hideouts. Its residents came from the historic settlement of Lefktra, where there are still remnants of the majestic castle, while various prominent personalities lived in Stoupa, like Nikos Kazantzakis and Alexis Zorbas. This is where the famous Greek writer took inspiration for his masterpiece, “The Life and Times of Alexis Zorbas”. Stoupa combines the beauty of the Messinian Mani with the modern tourism infrastructure and becomes one of the most attractive destinations in the southern Peloponnese.

Sunday Bazaar in Kopanaki

Kopanaki is located in mountainous Trifylia and is built on a verdant plain. It’s a rather quiet town, except for on Sundays, when many locals and visitors gather in the main square for the weekly bazaar.

The bazaar in Kopanaki is a tradition that started at the beginning of the 20th century and, despite the economic crisis that has inevitably affected both producers and merchants, it has managed to endure through time. Originally it started as a livestock market, but today you can find anything there; from agricultural and livestock products, flowers and nuts to bridal wear, tools, clothes and many more. The bazaar is visited by merchants and visitors from all over Messinia, who go there to sell, buy or simply just wander around the colourful benches. It certainly gives a financial boost to the area and its presence helps to sustain more than 60 professions in Kopanaki.

The Carnival Customs of Messinia

Carnival is celebrated every year with various festivities throughout Greece. It takes place in the period before Lent, which gives the opportunity to everybody to have fun before fasting, something that of course requires more timid and restrained behaviour. During the last three days of Carnival, various events take place everywhere, some of which are widely known, like, for example, the parades of floats and masquerades, while others are seen exclusively in certain places; which of course makes them all the more interesting. In the wider area of Messinia we stumble upon many of these, where locals and visitors participate in the festivities.

Messini

The Carnival celebrations in Messini start from Tsiknopempti (the second Thursday before Ash Monday), with a traditional taverna installed on a float, which meanders around town, offering kebabs and wine. On the morning of Ash Monday, in the location Kremala, the locals hold the re-enactment of the hanging of the old lady Sykou, which is said to be a true-life incident of the 18th century that goes as follows. Ibrahim was once camped in Messini and one night he had a bad dream. Alarmed as he was, he requested someone to interpret it for him. This is how Sykou came before him and told him that bad things would happen to him and his army, and that he would suffer a bad defeat from the Greeks. Ibrahim got so furious that he ordered his men to hang the old lady. For the re-enactment of the incident, a stage is used, where the actors play out the drama of Sykou, while the audience can also participate. In order to get away from the “executioners” and avoid being hanged, they have to bribe them. On the evening of Ash Monday in the main square we see King Carnival, accompanied by floats, masquerades and musicians. He delivers his satirical speech and then prompts people to dance, sing and have fun.

Methoni – “Tou Koutrouli o Gamos” (the Wedding of Koutroulis)

“Tou Koutrouli o Gamos” is a Greek expression, which basically means “a cheerful social gathering” with comic and humorous moments. What very few people know is that Koutroulis was actually a real person living in Methoni, who went through a great deal before getting married to the woman he loved. Nowadays, during Carnival, the locals revive this famous wedding in the square located near the beach, with feasts and events that last for 3 days.

Methoni – “Tou Koutrouli o Gamos” (the Wedding of Koutroulis) (long)

Carnival is celebrated throughout Greece with many festivities, events and customs -usually cheerful and humorous. In Methoni, Carnival is synonymous with the famous “Tou Koutrouli o Gamos”; a tradition based on a real event.

Ioannis Koutroulis was a knight from Methoni who had an affair with a married woman, because the Church refused to grant her a divorce from her husband. Their affair lasted for 17 years and was marked by plenty of bad commentary and personal attacks on the couple, since the society of the 14th century thought of this not only as illegal, but also as scandalous. Finally, the woman got her divorce in 1394 by the Bishop of Methoni and she was finally allowed to marry Koutroulis. This wedding, as expected, was a particularly important event, both because the couple had suffered for such a long time, and because their affair was known. This is why it was gloriously celebrated and it is said that it lasted for several days.

From the period of the Turkish occupation and onwards, when the locals decided to celebrate Carnival and Lent, they also decided to revive “Tou Koutrouli o Gamos”, which takes place on Ash Monday at 1pm in the square by the beach. This parody is accompanied by many humorous and satirical events. The festivities start on Saturday night, with a premarital celebration that lasts until the wee hours of the morning. The night is filled with food, dancing and many surprises that friends plan for the couple. On Sunday at 6pm, they sprinkle the dowry and the bridal bed and then everybody gathers in the pedestrian area, where pork, toasted bread and wine are offered. Ash Monday is the day of the wedding, and it is preceded by a float parade. After the wedding, the attendees are offered meatless delicacies and wine and the festivities continue.

Nedousa

Nedousa is a village in the region of Alagonia, where on Ash Monday they revive a tradition, the origins of which date back to ancient times. It belongs to the events of the so-called “euetiria” (eu meaning good and etos, meaning year), which related to fertility in nature, and aimed to bring a good year with a rich harvest. The attendees wander around in goat costumes, heavy bells on their necks and smeared faces. This is followed by agermos, during which the entire troupe goes from door to door giving warm greetings and collecting delicacies which will be eaten later by all. Then they hold the dance of the goats and the so called arotriosi, which is the re-enactment of the plowing of the land. The events continue with the “wedding”, which symbolizes reproduction, and then the funeral and the resurrection, which clearly refer to nature’s rebirth, after the “death” of winter. Then, everybody eats, drinks and dances to the sounds of folk music from traditional instruments, like the tabor and flute.

Pylos

A very special tradition took place in Pylos until recently. Unfortunately, however, it has gradually died out. It was known as the custom of Makaronas, a dummy made of straw dressed in regular human clothes. On the eve of Ash Monday, everybody would gather in the main square of Pylos, where Makaronas is being tried. The charge was that he had eaten all the pasta of Pylos, leaving the people starving! Unfortunately, Makaronas is always guilty and his sentence is always to be burned at the stake.

The Castle of Androussa (short)

The castle of Androussa was constructed after an order given by William Villeardhuin, of the famous noble Frankish family who ruled the area from the mid-13th century.

Its tumultuous past meant that it has been preserved in a rudimentary state. At around 1381 it came into the hands of the Navarrese and became the capital of the Moreas princedom. Then it came into the hands of prince Centurione Zaccaria and in 1432 it became the property of the Paleologi. Later it was conquered by Mehmed II the Conqueror and until the Greek Revolution it kept changing hands between the Turks and the Venetians.

It is a trapezoid castle, with four towers of various shapes standing at its four corners. Nearby stands the weathered turret. Despite the fact that the whole structure today appears deserted, during the Venetian rule the castle of Androussa was one of the most important ones in the area, more important even than the castle of Kalamata.

The Castle of Androussa (long)

The Castle of Androussa stands on a hill, close to the village of the same name in the prefecture of Messinia. It was built circa 1250 AD under the supervision of the Frankish prince William of Villehardouin, when he became head of the principality of Achaea, with the purpose of guarding the west part of the Messinian valley. Other important castles of the wider region were also built at William’s initiative. According to testimony, the prince built it with the money he collected by selling the lands of Byzantine landowners, using the residents of Androussa and the surrounding villages as workers.

During the 14th and 15th centuries the castle grew into an administrative centre of the principality, which is an indication of its important role. During the Venetian period, it was one of the most important castles of Peloponnesus, more important even than Kalamata’s castle. Nevertheless, it did not avoid the shared fate of most castles of that period, which constantly changed occupiers over a period of several centuries, until they were eventually left to go to ruin. This castle changed owners many times, until it became an object of contention between the Turks and the Venetians, who were actively claiming it up until the period of the Greek Revolution.

The castle is trapezoid-shaped and is surrounded by four towers of various shapes. The style of one of them, the polygonal one, shows that it is possibly a Byzantine or Turkish creation. A little further away, in a lush green field, stands the turret, which bears the indelible marks of relentless time.

The Castle of Androussa, despite being one of the most important of the region, is not one of the best preserved. For this reason the decision to reconstruct various parts was pleasant news. This project, which was included in the National Strategic Reference Framework, principally includes the restructuring of the castle’s wall on its north, south and eastern part, while it also provides for the restoration of the south-east, north-east and north tower. These works will be accompanied by detailed recording and photographing of all procedures with the purpose of further investigating the information that will arise.

This effort will significantly contribute towards “reviving” the castle and the surrounding region, which has rich historical information and a number of natural gems to offer.

The Castle of Arcadia – Kyparissia

The castle of Arcadia is one of the most important sights of the wider area of Kyparissia, which from the 10th century took the name Arcadia. Its creation must have taken place at the end of the 12th – beginning of the 13th century and its construction elements testify that it was a work of the Franks.

The castle is also called “Castle of the Giants”; according to one myth, Kyparissia was created by the Giants, and the size of the boulders from which the castle was built is considered a sign that it was not made by common people.

During Byzantine times it came into the hands of the Paleologi. In 1460 it was conquered by the Turks, who added to the fortification of the Franks. Between 1685 and 1715 it was under Venetian rule and its fortification was further enhanced. Its adventures ended at around 1830, when it came into Greek hands. Today it attracts thousands of tourists, who come to enjoy the great view it offers toward the whole area.

The Castle of Arcadia in Kyparissia (long)

The castle of Arcadia is one of the most important attractions not only in Kyparissia, but also in the wider region. Built in a strategic location, at the top of a hill, it overlooks the entire area and was justifiably characterized as “the balcony of Kyparissia”, because the unobstructed view to the spectacular nature is unimaginable. The name of the castle derives from the name Kyparissia acquired during the 10th and the 11th century, when many Arcadians fled here because of the difficult living conditions in their own homeland. In order to feel closer to home, they named this new area “Arcadia”.

The castle of Arcadia appears to have been built during the Middle Ages. Based on its technical features, it had to be constructed by the Franks, since similar buildings can be found only after 1205. Franks constructed many castles in the Peloponnese, in order to establish their local domination. Most of them were claimed by various conquerors and occupied by many different owners. The castle of Arcadia was no exception. Between the 13th and the 15th century it belonged to the Franks before it was turned over to the Byzantines. The Byzantines renovated it and built four bastions in each one of its corners. One of them still remains intact and is known as the “Tower of the Justinian”. In 1460 it was seized by the Turks, along with the entire area. The castle remained under the Turkish occupation until 1685, without any significant changes in its layout, apart from some additional fortification work. That year the Turks were attacked by the Venetians, who occupied the castle and held it until 1715. During their domination, various sections -destroyed by the Turks – were restored. In 1830, after the Battle of Navarino, the castle passed into the hands of the Greeks.

The castle is also known as “Castle of the Giants” because, according to mythology, Kyparissia and its acropolis were built by the mighty Giants. This also applies for the castle, since the stones used for its construction were so massive that only a Giant could lift. Today, in the premises of the castle and since 1970, there is a small open-air theatre that hosts interesting performances and events, as well as a cafeteria.

The Castle of Dourakis

The Castle of Captain Dourakis is located in Messinian Mani in the municipal district of Kastania. Kastania is built at the foot of Mount Taygetos, at an altitude of 700 metres, and is an exceptional natural fortress. Thus, it was no accident that the great chieftain Theodoros Kolokotronis chose to stay in this castle, while seeking refuge. The Castle of Dourakis was built in the 18th century and it’s a magnificent example of the traditional architectural style of Mani. Moreover, it has been declared listed by ministerial decision.

The Castle of Kalamata

The imposing Castle of Kalamata stands on a hill above the historic centre of the city, overlooking the area at a large radius, which was its initial purpose. It was built in the 13th century and is one of the numerous castles constructed in the Peloponnese by the Franks, who were seeking to establish their dominance over the widest possible range.

The castle was granted by William Champlitte to Geoffrey I Villehardouin, from the prominent Villehardouin family, who founded the principality of Achaia. Geoffrey expanded and fortified the castle, something that was deemed necessary, since over the centuries it was brutally attacked many times; by the Slavs in 1293, the Venetians in 1685 and the Turks in 1825. Today, there are still remnants of the fortification in various sites, a section of the defensive tower and an area covered by a small dome, which has been identified as the ruins of a church.

The Castle of Kalamata (long)

The Homeric Fares, the kingdom that Faris, son of Hermis and Danaides of Argos, founded, was once located on an imposing hill overlooking the historic centre of Kalamata. A small church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary Kalomata was built on this exact location, on a rock, in the 6th century AD, getting its name from the fact that the icon of Virgin Mary that was devoted there had beautiful, dark brown eyes. This is reportedly how Kalamata got its name. Later on, during the Frankish domination, a castle was built on this location, connected with the famous Villehardouin family who founded the principality of Achaia. Over the centuries, the castle fell into many different hands, depending on who was dominating the region. Byzantines, Francs, Venetians and Ottomans all claimed it at times; not surprising, considering the castle’s strategically advantageous position for control of the entire area.

The Castle is mentioned in the Chronicle of Morias, according to which, when the Franks came to the region in the beginning of the 13th century, was an insignificant fortress, serving as a monastery. William of Champlitte gave it to Geoffrey I Villehardouin who began a series of restoration works and extensions that were completed in the time of William II. The army of the Venetian Francesco Morosini inflicted severe damage to the castle in 1685, leading its occupants to proceed to its further fortification. In 1825 the Turks inflicted further damage, which they later repaired, however. Today, only part of the fortifications and the tower, which served as a refuge and dominated in the steep northeast corner of the castle, are preserved.

After the 1986 earthquake, the castle could no longer be visited, since many of its sections were deemed unsafe. Visitors can only walk around the perimeter of the inside of the castle, from where the view to the historic centre of Kalamata is breathtaking. A small theatre was constructed in 1950 at the southern end of the castle, which, during the summer months, hosts performances and various other cultural events.

The Castle of Koroni

The castle of Koroni is situated at the southeastern part of the Messenian Bay; in the 13th century it was, along with the castle of Methoni, a significant commercial centre and a communication hub between the west and the east.

According to an ancient tradition, Koroni took its name from a copper coin (kourouna) discovered during the digging of the foundations for its walls. According to another version, its first inhabitant, Epimilides from Koronia, Boeotia, gave it the name of his birthland, which the locals changed to Koroni. The city has also been identified with ancient Aepia, one of the seven cities given by Agamemnon to Achilles, in order to convince him to return to battle.

The castle of Koroni was built by the Venetians toward the end of the 13th century and ever since then it was a source of contention between them, the Ottomans and the Franks, as to who would rule it. Its strategic location -atop the peninsula’s highest spot- made it ideal for the supervision of the whole area. The castle is an excellent sample of the Venetian fortification technique with bulky gates, underground passages, sturdy walls and square towers. The tumultuous events connected with the castle’s history gave rise to a plethora of legends, many of which contained a grain of truth. From the top of the castle the view to the Messenian Bay is nothing less than enchanting.

The Castle of Koroni (long)

The Castle of Koroni belongs to a long series of impressive fortification structures strewn all over Messinia. It continues to stand proud and imposing on the top of a hill, despite the fact that it has been destroyed several times since its peak, which dates between the 13th and 17th centuries.

The castle initially fell into the hands of the Franks, during their conquering campaign from Morea, but quickly passed under the dominance of the Venetians, who slowly occupied the entire Messinian coast. Under the Venetian interests, the castle-town of Koroni flourished, becoming renowned for its industry. Both Venetians and Greeks lived in the castle, and their life was shaped around the intense pace of a productive and flourishing city. The prosperity of Koroni is recorded in the chronicles and journals of the many travellers who stopped there during their travels.

A tumultuous period followed when Koroni changed hands, something which left its mark on the region and on the castle, which underwent multiple interventions by its successive conquerors. During the first Venetian Occupation (13th – 15th century) a large enclosure was added to the eastern part of the castle, while a double semi-circular bastion was added to its north-eastern part, and the walls were reinforced. In 1500, the city fell into the hands of the Ottomans, who reinforced the south-east side of the castle, adding two circular bastions. In earlier times, a bastion had been built on the west of the castle by the Venetians, which underwent successive construction phases. Only a small part survives today. Subsequently, Koroni was occupied by the allied fleet of Emperor Charles V, and then by Morosini, while in 1715 it was re-occupied by the Ottomans. In 1770 Koroni was bombarded by the Orlofs, and was almost completely destroyed. Later the city was conquered by Maison, and enjoyed a short peak period until the late 19th century, when the castle and the city were gradually deserted.

The fort covers a relatively large area, is nearly triangular in shape and has impressive square towers. Almost every corner includes a vault, that is, a gun powder room. Several stone-carved tombs are preserved in its interior, a Turkish bath, Venetian cisterns, as well as the ruins of the Church of Saint Sophia, an early Christian Byzantine three-aisled basilica, possibly from the 7th century. At a close distance lie the Church of Saint Haralambos and the Old Calendarist Monastery of John the Precursor, built at the beginning of the last century. In the middle of a fenced area inside the castle we find the so-called Resalto, a marble column in memory of the fallen Greeks of 28 February 1824, who tried to take the castle from the Turks, but who tragically met with death.

The Castle of Methoni

The castle of Methoni, one of the most typical castle town examples in Greece, stands imposingly on the southwestern part of the Peloponnese. Right next to it is the small fortified island of Bourtzi, with which it is connected through a small arched bridge.

The castle was built in 1209 A.D. by the Venetians. In antiquity the area was known as Pedasus, the “vine-clad” one, according to Homer, a name which testifies to the abundance of vines in the area. Homer also refers to it as one of the seven cities given by Agamemnon to Achilles, in order to assuage his anger and to convince him to return to battle. According to Pausanias and Strabo, the city was called Mothoni, while Thucydides refers to its loose fortification in the 5th century.

The natural harbour close to the castle and its trategic location resulted in its becoming a source of contention among several powerful peoples throughout the centuries, who coveted the area for their own financial and diplomatic interests. It was impossible for Franks, Venetians and Ottomans to pass from this strategic place without claiming owenership.

The castle reached its great prime during the 1st Venetian Rule, between the 13th and the 15th century, while its final decline came about around 1828, when its inhabitants were transferred outside the walls, leaving it to ruin. Despite is abandonment, the castle continues to echo with the memories of glorious times long gone, and today it is an attraction point for thousands of tourists.

The Castle of Methoni (long)

It was the Venetians who began to build the Castle of Methoni, while during its occupation by the Franks and Ottomans, it unavoidably underwent their alterations. The castle is an exceptional example of a fortified building, and its construction is evidence of how important it was considered to be by the various people who passed through it; not only as a fort and a base, but also owing to the strategic location of the region in general.

The first references to the castle are found in the maps and engravings of the first travellers, who moored in the port of Methoni, using it as an interim stop during their travels. Thanks to their drawings, we now know substantial details about the original form of the castle and its evolution.

The Castle of Methoni covers an area of approximately 93,000 square metres and is divided into two parts. The south part is taken up by the city, which is surrounded by a simple wall, while the city’s fort lies at its northern part, with exterior fortification owing to its defensive purpose. The castle is separated from the land by a ditch and can be reached via a wooden bridge. The central entrance gate of the castle is one of its most impressive features: it ends in an arc, with pilasters with Corinthian capitals on its left and right, possibly the work of the Venetians after 1700. The castle’s walls underwent various modifications and reconstructions over the centuries, depending on the protection requirements of each era.

Several buildings survive inside the castle: the Church of Metamorfosi of Sotiros, which possibly belongs to the second Venetian Period, a gun powder room from the first Venetian Period, two Ottoman baths, the ruins of the homes of its Venetian masters, and the building where initially, the pasha, Ibrahim, and later General Maison, lived, the ruins of the Byzantine church of Saint Sophia, as well as the famous “Column of Morosini”, a smooth granite column with a capital on top, believed to have supported the bust of Morosini or the winged Venetian lion. There are also ruins from a cemetery for British prisoners from the Second World War.

Characteristic of Methoni is also Bourtzi, a small embattled islet to the south of the castle. Bourtzi was built after 1500, and at various times was used as a fort, a prison, a lighthouse, and a refuge during periods of raids. It consists of a two-storey octagonal tower, surrounded by a low wall, ending in a circular dome. Each floor has a parapet with battlements, and there was a cistern on the ground floor. Bourtzi was connected with the rest of the castle via a small bridge.

Even though it is in ruins today, the Castle of Methoni continues to awe the visitor with its atmospheric ambience. As it stands alone, imposing, prey to the winds, it gives the impression of a silent and austere observer.

The Castle of Zarnata

The castle of Zarnata is situated at the northwestern border of Mani, close to the town of Kambos, in Avia. It is one of the most important castles in the area, built on a hill amidst a verdant valley. The discovery of polygonal walls in the castle’s foundations reinforces the view that it was built on the site of an ancient acropolis, probably Enopi. Many identify the area with ancient Gerenia, one of the 18 cities that comprised the League of the Eleftherolakones.

The castle seems to have been built during the mid-17th century, on the ruins of an older castle. Regarding its provenance, there are several opinions. Some believe it was built by the Franks, others by Venetians and others by Turks. This last view seems to be the most prevalent one, since many sources mention Vizier Achmet Kiupurli as its founder.

The castle was used extensively during the Greek Revolution also. Theodoros Kolokotronis also fought here; he had come to help Panaghiotis Koumoundourakis, Bey of Mani, when he was deposed and had Turks and Maniates turn against him.

The Castle of Zarnata (long)

Zarnata, a large district belonging to the prefecture of Messinia, once began at the area between Kardamyli and Kitria and reached the peaks of Taygetus. An important site in the area is the castle with the same name, standing on a hill close to the Valley of Avia. This is not a very large castle, but it played a crucial role in the historical events of Mani.

The Castle of Zarnata is also called the Castle of Koumoundourakis, from Panagiotis Koumoundourakis, the Bei of Mani, with whom Theodoros Kolokotronis found refuge when he was persecuted. The castle is possibly a Turkish construction, although several sources talk about a possible Frankish or Venetian origin. The majority of sources, however, concur that the castle was built by Visier Achmet-Cupurli, who wanted to control the movements of the Maniates.

We know that the castle existed in the 15th century, as there is reference to its concession by Theodoros II Palaiologus to Constantine, Despot of Mystras and his successor. In 1460 it was conquered by the Turks, who caused significant damage. In 1669, on the ruins of the old castle, they built a new one, which had a mosque and baths. Parts of the medieval wall from its first phase survive today, as well as some frescoes dating to the 15th century, in the abandoned church of Saint Nicholas and the church of Zoodochos Pigi, which was built in the middle of the castle in 1776.

The castle is surrounded by a polygonal wall, at a length of 364 metres, and which was between eight and ten metres tall, with six towers – two round and four square ones – while in the centre stood a large tower with six canons, of a total of 51 which the castle had. Two gates, one in the south-east and one in the north-west, led to the castle’s interior, which covered an area of 23,000 square metres. Today, on the highest point of the hill stands a three-storey tower, 15 metres tall, and next to it a five-storey house where the captains of the area once lived. Both of these buildings belonged initially to the Koutifari family and then passed to the Koumoundourou family.

The Castle of Zarnata has borne witness to many adventures, with its various occupants throughout the ages. From the Turks, it was handed over to the Venetians – to general Morosini – in 1685; and in 1776 came into the possession of the Maniates. The Castle of Zarnata held a leading role in the tumultuous history of Mani, one more reason that makes it important.